Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just saw on toymods a group buy for gearbox bell housing adaptors to fit w55 box to 4a motors, so it must be an issue with the weaker T50 box as you mentioned

I may have to read a bit more on this

I was also thinking about painting the AE86 Ford blueprint to match my R33

Are going to do the same?

  • Replies 154
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just saw on toymods a group buy for gearbox bell housing adaptors to fit w55 box to 4a motors, so it must be an issue with the weaker T50 box as you mentioned

I may have to read a bit more on this

I was also thinking about painting the AE86 Ford blueprint to match my R33

Are going to do the same?

HEHEHE your line blueprint too? cool

yeah . i dont know for sure about those boxes .. but i wouldn't want any power going through them!

jap spec ones would be a totally different issue.

it's my mates car, but me and his brother do nearly al the work on it.. so it's getting resprayed in red.

DAYUM , rb25 with 3040 would hammer in one of those.. would love to see that car go!

yeah . i dont know for sure about those boxes .. but i wouldn't want any power going through them!

jap spec ones would be a totally different issue.

apart from the clutch slave being on the opposite side they are the same. They are definitely strong enough for a n/a 20v... i have run one on my 20v for close to 3 years and it is still going strong.

apart from the clutch slave being on the opposite side they are the same.  They are definitely strong enough for a n/a 20v...    i have run one on my 20v for close to 3 years and it is still going strong.

cool, thats good news for Darrin ..

I am having a look at buy another ae86 this afternoon

genuine import Trueno

twin cam, P/steer, P/window, pop up head lights, disk brake LSD rar end, digital dash, white, 5 speed, air cond. complied approx 2 years ago 56,000km??

Has minor damage to front right corner

needs bonnet, head light and guard

Price $1500 ono :P

Had a look at toymods site, these things sell for approx $7000-12000.

Should be a bargin.

Even it is rough, I can always strip

Disc brake rear and LSD $1000

4age and g/box ecu $1500

Body and panels $1000-2000

interior and dash $500-800

mags $200-500

other parts $1000-2000

either way i can fix it and drive, the best option

Use the good parts in my other AE86 and sell the rest of the parts

Repair it and sell for $7000 plus

Too many options

The Trueno turned out to be a AE92 Trueno :rofl:

Never trust a women, no idea.

I have been doing some reading, the CA18det sounds like a good idea

Craved, have you got much further with yours

I have read your other posts about the conversion, It does not look too hard

Will the handbrake be fine in that location for daily use?

Why did you make a custom inlet plenum? Performance gain or install requirment.

Have you got many more pic's

Any more info would be great

other option is NA sr20de and 5 speed.

i was thinking of getting a ae86, but of course they are pretty rare here in vic, and seeing as i live about 2 hours outta melb that dont help either...

personally, i would like a sr20 redtop conversion into that beast and sha-zam! one fast little drift beast!

yeah, and i wouldnt mind if anyone knows of anyone else whos selling one eh?

-JL

Yeah there is one i found in brizvegas at banzai motorsport www.banzaimotorsports.com.au but it doesnt have a price listed for it.

y0 craved, my engine mount for the CA18 seems to be showin some stress due to engine twist. My fault I guess for doin some ghetto welds :) How much is the full engine and gearbox mount kit from where you got it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...