Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch/hydraulic problem, won't go into gears

StuiE
 Share

Recommended Posts

StuiE Rising Star

StuiE

Posted
Posted

Got a bit of a problem, I've been doing a manual conversion on my car, and it's pretty much finished, but with the car running I can't get it into any gear, with the car off it's fine, the slave cylinder had been bled properly...so whats going on?

The only thing we can think of is a dodgy slave cylinder, or something else in the hydraulics.

My g/f's dad had a look at it and rekons the clutchplate would be in backwards, but I'm pretty sure that isn't possible with an R31..the centre would be bashing on the flywheel wouldn't it? He also moved the clutch fork by hand (not easy) and I still couldn't get it into gears, though I'm not sure he did it all the way.

I'm about to try another slave cylinder, if it's not that then what would it be? I looked in the Gregory's and there was pedal freeplay-checked that, hydraulic stuff- still not 100% on, and warped clutch plate, I very much doubt since it has all just gone in and the clutch was pretty good.

cheers

Stu

edit: Treid another slave cylinder, no difference.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

check to make sure the pin length is the same on the slave cylinder and that when you operate the pedal, the throwout fork moves all the way. If the pin length is wrong, you can just cut down a bolt the same diameter and round off the end. get someone to watch the fork when you hold the pedal down.....does it slowly return by itself . This will tell you if the hydraulics are loosing pressure. If all these things are good, you might have to remove the box to see if maybe the carrier bearing was put on the wrong way (this should only make a noise). and check that the pressure plate bolts are all tight. Another possibility is that the fork is slightly bent or the adjustment under the pedal is incorrect.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There are different size carriers for the thrust bearing. If you installed a "short" one, then it won't reach far enough to properly disengage the clutch.

I have also encountered a situation where the cup that the thrust fork pivots on had split open, so that every time you pressed the cluch pedal, the fork started to slip down over the pivot pin.

It may well be a case of pulling the gearboix out and checking things and measuring things.

BTW, which gearbox are you installing?

StuiE Rising Star

StuiE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Managed to find the problem, turns out the clutch plate I was given was just a little too big for the pressure plate, got a new one and all good :P

Was starting to suspect a bent fork or pivot not adjusted properly, tried a longer pushrod, but it wouldn't let the slave physically fit!!!

Just an R31 RB30 'box....conversion now complete ;) she's nice to drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...