Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My turbo needs replacing(R33 GTST) and i,m thinking of a HKS gt2530. Apart from 3 inch exhaust my car is standard . WIll I be able to run this turbo and change things as I can afford to. or do I need to do the extras first?.. Am I better of overhauling my stock turbo with High flow wheels.. Any advice would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stuff high-flowing, i've got a hi-flow and its starting to stuff up, i'm also due for a replacement. To high flow your turbo will be a good $1200+, you can pick up a second hand gt2530 for about $1500; spending the extra few hundred is worth it as you will get a quality turbo made by HKS, not a highflow that some guy in a workshop has put together. You can slap on just the turbo by itself, you will get more power by using the HKS dump pipe but the stock dump will also fit so you dont have to change this right away. Of course if you want to start running more boost from the new turbo you will need to start upgrading other support systems - fuel pump, ECU, injectors etc, but running the new turbo on say stock boost or a little bit more will be fine.

My turbo needs replacing(R33 GTST) and i,m thinking of a HKS gt2530. Apart from 3 inch exhaust my car is standard . WIll I be able to run this turbo and change things as I can afford to. or do I need to do the extras first?.. Am I better of overhauling my stock turbo with High flow wheels.. Any advice would be appreciated
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1075693
Share on other sites

ive run a 12.5 with my 2530. I once said i thought this turbo was too small for a rb25 as it doesnt hold boost at the top end, but after some some observations of the boost guage it seems boost only drops off after 6500, so its not really an issue, just affects your peak power figure.

i dunno how itd go with stock ecu, as long as you check your AFR's on a dyno you should be fine.

Ill be selling mine early next year complete bolt on with all lines and pipes inc HKS stainless dump, for when the 2835pro goes on, but even now its a street weapon with great drivability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1075939
Share on other sites

I've never understood why there are so many people that keep saying that a 2530 is too small for an rb25, when for one, it is in fact larger, albeit marginally, than the standard rb25 turbo, and secondly, HKS recommendeds the 2530 as a rb25 upgrade. How do I know this? It is on the front cover of the 2530 installation manual.

As Sly has personally experienced, it is capable of producing a 12.5. Too small? I think not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076164
Share on other sites

Fane, i agree, if your future plans are to further increase your rb25's output beyond the capabilities of the 2530, then fitting one now would be a waste of time and money.

But i think it is worth realising that not everyone wants to be a horsepower hero. For someone who mainly wants a large increase in mindrange power and torque without sacrificing response, i cannot see why the 2530 would not be a very attractive option, especially when a good condition, second hand 2530 can be found for just under $2000.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076250
Share on other sites

fane, what makes you believe the 2530 is too small? have you used one or driven an rb25 with one? The peak power it makes doesnt tell half the story. The midrange and response is awesome.

I have no problem with people expressing opinions, but without direct experience i think can be misleading to others. If i took you for a spin in mine im sure youd be grinning afterwards and might not think its so small :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076302
Share on other sites

also ive run side by side many times with cars producing up to 40rwkw more than mine, and either been dead even or beaten them, ie again, peak power isnt everything.

I do see your point, i went from 200rwkw stock turbo to 220rwkw, and thought it was a lot to spend for just 20rwkw! but the difference in power delivery and fun factor is chalk and cheese.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076309
Share on other sites

An RB25 with a 2530 is the best street car i have ever driven. OK so i havent driven hundreds of setups but the thing was very impressive. It was so responsive and...well lets just say it was great turbo.

I think a 2535 would be much the same. As a road car thats fun and scares ppl i reckon they are on the money. Too small, to some maybe, but 230rwkws on tap irrespective of gear and a good spread of power makes for a fun ride.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076313
Share on other sites

sly,

115mph... thats impressive!!

so you extracted more power from the 2530? what power does it make now @ what boost?

i just did 12.97 @ 104mph which i thought was a low mph.

the difference between a 2.1 60' and a 1.8 60' for me ended up being almost half a second at the end of the track so with some more practice and sticky tyres you could have a VERY low 12 in the bag.

congrats!

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076473
Share on other sites

My turbo needs replacing(R33 GTST) and i,m thinking of a HKS gt2530. Apart from 3 inch exhaust my car is standard . WIll I be able to run this turbo and change things as I can afford to. or do I need to do the extras first?.. Am I better of overhauling my stock turbo with High flow wheels.. Any advice would be appreciated

My 2cents......

Firstly, I would suggest a HKS GT over a rebuilt / high flowed for your car. No doubt !! ( Would be happy to elaborate if required )

On the topic of HKS GT's, while in Japan I was made quite aware that the perfect partners were, HKS GT2530 for an RB20 and then GT2535 for an RB25. This is of course for a reasonably sensible street car / track days. Personally, I think they were right but there are exceptions ( eg. using a GT2530 on an RB25 for drifting ).

My opinion..... GT2530 for great launches and awesome mid range with very respectable top end or GT2535 for a little less down low and a bit more up top.

Hope that helps ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076583
Share on other sites

sly,

115mph... thats impressive!!

so you extracted more power from the 2530? what power does it make now @ what boost?

i just did 12.97 @ 104mph which i thought was a low mph.

the difference between a 2.1 60' and a 1.8 60' for me ended up being almost half a second at the end of the track so with some more practice and sticky tyres you could have a VERY low 12 in the bag.

congrats!

Evan

hi evan, no i havent got anymore power out of the 2530, Its actually making less than when i first had it tuned due to the addition of a cat in the exhaust, which im still running. I made 227rwkw without cat, and now make 218rwkw at just under 1bar, but run 1.2 bar till about 6-6500rpm (boost drops off after here).

yeah im pretty pleased with the mph! ive just been fighting axle tramp off the line which is why the 60ft time isnt so good. A 1.8 60ft time would definitly bag a very low 12.

Congrats on getting into the 12s!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076635
Share on other sites

I was reading a write up on a comparison on the GT2530(I think) and the GT-RS in zoom I think it was, was a very goof read. I'll scan it in and post it if anyone was keen to have a look?

The end result was that although the GT-RS lacked a little bit in top end the mid range response was awesome. It was picked over the GT2530 but price is a bit of a turn off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55091-hks-gt2530/#findComment-1076658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...