Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

I got an on going issue when starting up my r33. no matter when, type of weather, or if the car is warm or not, 9/10 there will be a heavy smell of raw fuel coming from ... somewhere ... it last for about mayb 5 secs or a little bit more. i havent figured out where its coming from, cuaz its soo strong. but there are no leaks and after a quick inspection on the hoist, cant seem to see any cracks underneath near the tank, or in the engine bay, OR signs of leaking.

i was wondering ( of course ) if anyone knows what could be the problem here...

also is the neck that goes from the fuel cap to the tank (that brass coloured part) meant to be loos? i can easly pull it off!

anyways, please ask questions if need be... (btw - no mods, pretty standard, exhuast, and yeah lol)

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55239-issue-when-starting-r33/
Share on other sites

ive changed the o2 sensor and that weekend i got 200km from half a tank... then it went crap again max 250km on a tank

recently replaced air filter with a K&N filter getting up to an extra 100 km driving normal.

next thing i guess is the coolant temp sensor! hehe...

but yeah recently, i can smell it constantly... like each time i start.

like i said once every 10 times it doesnt smell... but its soo overpowering it cant be normal! haha!

people are scared to light up a cigarette near my car! lol (which is a good thing...)

200km to a tank!?

Do you boost it everywhere you go or something...

i wish. i used to struggle to get to 250, driving at a max of 3K rpm every gear! it was painful trying to figure out how far i could get without going over that.

500km... u lucky bastard. thats all i can say!

i reckon thta fuel smell has something to do with it.. like evaporation from somewhere

i dont mind putting te fuel in each week.. its the fact that if i go for a drive i have to plan the drive so i know i wont be pushing my car to the nearest full station! and it really annoing. :D

I think you will find that it leaks from the filler neck or the fuel cap .

After you been driving for a while especialy on a hot , warm day , take the cap off if there is no hissing sound it means that it leaks .

A lot of imports leak from the filler neck because the put them in here and they don't glue them in promply so they are not 100% airtight .

To fix it you have to take the filler neck out and reglue it but first make sure the cap doesn't leak .

I used to get 500km's to a tank with the rb20t am still with the RB30DET.

Sure I'm not on boost with the RB30DET as I've wired the wastegate open but i'm sure as hell giving it stick every where. :D

I would look at the engine temp sensor & also the O2 sensor but first as WRXhoon suggested.. Make sure the petrol tank isn't letting vapours out and wasting fuel. :)

250km's to a tank. That would be very very depressing. :D

My old VS 5ltr Commodore after its cam etc used to still be able to nudge 400km's to a tank. (it was a larger tank though).

I sold it because it was heavy on fuel and sloooow.. ;)

lol.. Had a nice note though... :D

CroatianDlite i have the same deal, the brass piece that the fuel caps screws into is loose! I hear that they are only there for compliance and are not needed in japan? I was thinking of using glue to seal it but not sure f its a good idea... Anyone?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...