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hey Ryosuke I have a 16" thermo on my R31 & works a treat

I might be able to get u one cheap but will have to look into it + u pay freight cost.

send me a PM if u want me to check into it (brand new by the way & not hot)

I am using a old mits colt thermo switch for the cut in/out, 85 deg (give/take) 5deg+/- 74 deg +/- 3 deg,

I had a 38mm exhust pipe made up thats 2" long placed in the top hose with the switch/nut welded into the pipe, as the clutch fans on the RB's run a heat clutch in them so there is no way to get a switch in there any other way + plastic tank on the Rad means the copper probe is not the best idea as u can bust the top rad outlet trying to over do the clamp to stop leaks

also the switch is a 1 pin switch so u will need to earth the pipe out so once the switch opens it earths out through the pipe

Hope that helps a little :(

Cheers Mike

ok i ll try and autobarn...pm sent Oz your explaination is abit complicated for me lol

i just had a fmic installed and now the car overheats....tried tightening the belts,removed thermostat,flushin but doesnt help with the engine temps

thats what i think aswell i havent measured it yet but lookin at pics i think it just fits(http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/vi...pic.php?t=52641)

ive also removed my whole air con setup and left one of the fans which was used for the air con it helps but its noisy and the amount of air is not enough so it must be the fan thats the problem

mazda rx7 88turbo

it started overheating after the whole engine was put back in incl the radiator

it had a fmic installed along with the removal of the air con

tried a number of things such as removal of thermstat,tightening pulley and flushin radiator and waterpump but havent really helped

i spin the clutch fan but it seems to be ok

If the motor has been fully rebuilt they do tend to run a little warmer due to them being tight. Probally not to this degree though.

When you start the car when its cold can you hear the clutch fan (should be louder when cold because the clutch oil runs to the bottom of hub). My point is it should be engaged when you first start the car.

After a couple of minutes it should dis-engage and go quiet. It should then re-engage when the motor comes up to temperature.

If the hub is functioning and your sure of that, it may be one of two problems.

If the radiator was removed and allowed to dry out so to speak from sitting empty while motor was getting worked on. It may have had some internal corrosion/sludge flake off the tanks and block some of the rows effecting cooling capability.

If you reverse flush the radiator, (the opposite way that they water normally runs) you may blow any debre/crap out of the radiator thats causing possible trouble.

If you are sure the radiator is fine as well. The next thing would be to look at the FMIC and how much it is impeding flow to the radiator.

If it is a large bar and plate and the only way to the radiator is through the cooler, my guess is this may be your problem.

I've fitted heap of coolers with never having any negative effects to engine temp but there has always been an alternate way for the radiator to get air flow, not just from through the cooler. (Not familiar with the setup you have so cant comment)

The only other things it could be is faulty water pump (unlikely) excessively retarted timing which causes manifold to glow red hot and overheat motor. (unlikely).

You have already mentioned that the thermastat is ok?

hey ryosuke if its only since the motors been rebuilt as RB30 power said they do run hotter after a rebuild but what was done side seals apex the hole lot with water seal kit??????

I would be sus of the motor build a bit, also has it only started after the cooler was fitted or after the engine was reconed????

AH FORGET I ASKED LOL I AM BLIND

yeah binky I have noticed the same thing with my car it the car idles a lot smoother & also the car runs a lot cooler then with the clutch fan I am running a inline switch in a 38mm diameter pipe thats 2" long in the top hose & it works a treat had to many probs with the copper prob leaking out around the top rad hose & didn't want to try & nip it up more as the RB 's run plastic tank's & was worryed about busting the tank outlet.

ALSO Ryosuke if u do go with a thermo fan KEEP THE FAN SHROUD on the rad just cut it a little so the thermo fan will fit on under it, it means that the fan will pull air through better, by the way sorry about my 1st post I though u had a line :D

lol RB30 power i dont really understand your explaination that much but when the engine was put it and i tried turnin the engine over i heard funny sounds from the clutch fan but now it doesnt make noises nomore...the engine has not been rebuilt as i had comp tested it and it was almost perfect comp

i think this will be my plan....get one of my old radiators service and rebuilt it....if it still overheats i ll go the thermos.....can someone explain to me the push and pull types of thermos?

yeah i want one anyone wanna trade?

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