Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys..

As part of my upgrade plan, ive got two more steps to go...

1) Up boost to 12psi, install power fc and tune

2) install Ext Cam Gear

Now - in regards to step (2), i understand that this is a mechanical retard.

My question is (sorry if its dumb) - is there any advantage to do this together/prior to the power fc tune for maximum gains....or does it matter nothing since the retard is mechanical ??

:D

There is no difference if all you're doing is replacing your factory gear with an adjustable one ;)

I have heard plenty of people with 33 gtst's getting good results by retarding the exh gear a couple of degrees. As with any modification, you are ALWAYS better to perform the change AND THEN tune for it afterwards.

Adrian

The retarding of the cam gear will do a couple of things.

First your peak power may be a a little lower, this is why people complain about no gains they are looking at the peak power dyno reading. However the boost comes on a tad sooner and the power across the boost range bar the very top end is up usually 10hp or so.

Bottom line is you will have a quicker car at the end of the tune. The guy without the cam gear might beat you in a dyno comp but, you kick his ass everywhere else that actually matters.

As mentioned you need to retune the car and focus on the mid range power timing and fuel maps.

Hi Guys...

2rismo - what you have stated makes sense - however, i wasnt sure if there was any difference between mechanical retard and overall tuning capabilities..

rev210 - the exact reason why i got them...i really dont care about the end dyno figure, just hoping for a good torque (re: 1/4 mile) result...

So - what im hearing is that it seems better to install the cam gear before the overall tune..

Thanks for the replies guys...seems like ill have to wait a while longer before i do the power fc tune... (re: ill do the cam gear install first)

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...