Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go the stacked plate style like SK has. Much more efficient than a serpentine style of the same size. In fact for the same size core it works about 30% more efficiently.

MOST of the good stacked plate cores are made by the company from Canada and just rebadged/packaged. Eg. B & M, BTR, Drive tech. All the same core, different packaging but all VERY good trans coolers. It is unbelievable how much heat transfer gets done with one of these... And the oil is the only thing keeping the box alive!

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work, i recently installed a Transmission Cooler on my 2001 Nissan Maxima, after already going through one gear box and seeming there note exactly easy to find i decided to take some precautions this time, ended up being very easy to install, me and a mate had it finished within 3 hours..

Good work

  • 1 month later...

I fitted up the Davis Craig cooler yesterday. It is a relatively easy fitment but having a front mount makes it a bit harder to get in.

One thing the SK didn’t mention or maybe didn’t have trouble with on his car is that one of the stock pipes ends right next to the edge of the cooler making it impossible to fit the hose. I got around this by bending both pipes towards the front of the car a little.

oh and I have better horns

RIMG0961.JPG

RIMG0960.JPG

RIMG0959.JPG

RIMG0957.JPG

RIMG0956.JPG

I fitted up the Davis Craig cooler yesterday.  It is a relatively easy fitment but having a front mount makes it a bit harder to get in.  

One thing the SK didn’t mention or maybe didn’t have trouble with on his car is that one of the stock pipes ends right next to the edge of the cooler making it impossible to fit the hose. I got around this by bending both pipes towards the front of the car a little.  

oh and I have better horns

Good job on the install, must have been tricky getting to the bottom bolt on the trans cooler standard bracket with the front mount there. The standard pipes were a bit of a pain, but I squeezed the hoses on without doing any bending. Yours is neeter though with the bent pipes and you have used less hose as well.

Oh and nice horns, what brand are they? Are they loud?

PS; not keen on the pink wiring though

I have a large tranny cooler fitted to my 25x Four ( 4WD non Turbo ) Stagea as I tow a caravan. But I notice it takes ages for the box to go into torque converter lockup during normal driving. I am guessing this is because the cooler is so efficent and there is a temp sensor in the tranny?? I tried putting a board in front of the cooler when I was not towing, but not any better. Is there anyone else with an extra cooler who has noticed this too?? Bit hard on fuel this way, as does 3000rpm at 100kph till the TC locks up!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Just to let you guys know my stock cooler is about 280x160xwhatever and has been moved to the side out of the way of the radiator and intercooler.

I decided to put a temperature gauge in to see what the temps were doing. I asked an expert what temps to worry about and was told to keep it under 130 degrees C.

I then went to Wakefield on a hot day and did numerous laps. The trans fluid temp never got over 105.

The conclusion I'm drawing here is that the cooler is smaller in size but handles the job no worries. I have no idea whether more heat is generated towing or racing.

I have a tube without the fins for my power steering stock. Should I be worrying about cooling this fluid any more? For some weird reason it's on the other side of the car to the power steering fluid reservoir. Maybe because of the steering box being on that side.

Just to let you guys know my stock cooler is about 280x160xwhatever and has been moved to the side out of the way of the radiator and intercooler.

I decided to put a temperature gauge in to see what the temps were doing.  I asked an expert what temps to worry about and was told to keep it under 130 degrees C.

I then went to Wakefield on a hot day and did numerous laps.  The trans fluid temp never got over 105.

The conclusion I'm drawing here is that the cooler is smaller in size but handles the job no worries.  I have no idea whether more heat is generated towing or racing.

I have a tube without the fins for my power steering stock.  Should I be worrying about cooling this fluid any more?  For some weird reason it's on the other side of the car to the power steering fluid reservoir.  Maybe because of the steering box being on that side.

Generally speaking, I reckon circuit work is better (cooler) then towing as there is lots of airflow. Towing can be lots of torque converter and gearbox load with very low airflow eg; in traffic.

I am upgrading the R32GTST power steering cooler from the standard loop of aluminium to the transmission cooler I took off the Stagea. Plenty big enough and I am being environmentally sound by recycling. :(

:( cheers :(

said this once to Chris (prank)

You loose perspective of size when you living life at 1680x1050. For me the original was "small". ive dumbed it down even furthur :D

Ill probably make the ducting out of 0.5mm or 1mm aluminium from bunnings, pop riveted together.

Ill let everyone know :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...