Transmission Cooler

[Abo Bob]

That's the right stuff. Does anyone know what you coat it with to make it a bit shinier and more resistant to scratches?

[satanic]

It is always so nice to be able to log onto SAU and come accross the first possible thread - only to find it is TOTALLY APPLICABLE TO YOU!

AWESOME THREAD SK! Love your work!

Questions:

1) I've looked at DC Coolers for my R34GTT, will the one you have listed fit? I'm planning to relocate it to the right hand side where the stock washer bottle was (removed and relocated after FMIC install)...

2) The DC cooler you have listed for $150.00; does that include everything needed to FIT the cooler? I'm assuming you'd just use the same lines from the old one...

* Since I'm planning to relocate it, I'll assume I'll need new lines...

3) Would it be viable to have both the stock cooler AND the new cooler running in series? Or would there be some sort of pressure loss due to the distances involved?

4) What type of Tranny Oil is best reccomended for a Tiptronic Auto box

And for all who want to know about valve bodies; I've read that thread from front to back and I'd say to get it... for the R34GTT auto, it's definitely a MUST!

PS: did I mention SK is GOD?

[Abo Bob]

Are you saying you are upgrading the standard trans cooler?

Why?

Mike at MV told me that pretty much any Dexron III will do the job fine. I put in Redline High Temp ATF which helped a bit with sharper shifts but since the box was already on it's way out then it didn't make it last longer.

You could try Redline Racing ATF which has no friction modifiers. Apparently the FTO guys swear by it.

You could run two coolers in series but just like engine oil, the fluid needs to be at least a certain temp to work properly. Around 80-90 seems normal. They run the fluid through the radiator not just to cool it but to stabalise the temp. I think it might even help warm it up a bit when you start driving from cold.

Water, engine oil and trans fluid are all around 80-90 during ordinary operation.

[Sydneykid]

It is always so nice to be able to log onto SAU and come accross the first possible thread - only to find it is TOTALLY APPLICABLE TO YOU! 

AWESOME THREAD SK!  Love your work!

Questions:

1) I've looked at DC Coolers for my R34GTT, will the one you have listed fit? I'm planning to relocate it to the right hand side where the stock washer bottle was (removed and relocated after FMIC install)...

2) The DC cooler you have listed for $150.00; does that include everything needed to FIT the cooler?  I'm assuming you'd just use the same lines from the old one...

* Since I'm planning to relocate it, I'll assume I'll need new lines... 

3) Would it be viable to have both the stock cooler AND the new cooler running in series?  Or would there be some sort of pressure loss due to the distances involved?

4) What type of Tranny Oil is best reccomended for a Tiptronic Auto box  

And for all who want to know about valve bodies; I've read that thread from front to back and I'd say to get it...  for the R34GTT auto, it's definitely a MUST!

PS: did I mention SK is GOD?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

1.Yes

2. This picture is on the first page of this thread, it shows what comes in the kit, there is a reasonable amount of hose as you can see;

3. The Stagea uses a coil in the bottom tank of the radiator and the loop of aluminium pipe (with fins) transcooler standard. I just replaced the loppy aluminium cooler with the larger better flowing cooler. Never had a problem, so don't think you would neeed 2.

4. I use Castrol Tranmax Z

cheers

[satanic]

OK, just ordered one of these off my part suppliers . . . Part Number 678 for $130.00, happy happy joy joy!

My thoughts are to run the new cooler in series AFTER the stock cooler; keep the lines running through the radiator as well.

This way it'll flow like this:

Into Radiator > [Warms] > Into Stock Cooler > [Cools] > Into DC Cooler > [COLD]

I hope this will work, if anyone disagrees please feel free to correct me. I'm only guessing here based on common sense!

[Burns]

Just install is as SK and I have as shown on the earlier posts. Don't go changing the pipe routing. It fits and mounts easily the R34 would be exactly the same as the Stagea.

[Ska]

Please excuse my ignorance, but I know auto's have trans coolers, but what about manuals? Would it be wise to stick one on?

[GoldZilla]

Actually Cyrus, do you find your gearbox a bit stiff when it's cold? I find it hard getting it back into first gear when I'm rolling even slightly. Until the engine and gearbox oil have had a chance to get any warmth in (even just for the first half-kilometre), it pretty much refuses to be put back into first.

I'm guessing yours was fitted with a GT-R 'box as well - mine's from an R32.

You know those times when you've just about pulled up, but don't have to come to a complete stop, and you don't wanna stress the engine with too little revs when pulling away in second, so you try and put it back in first to take off more smoothly?

[Ska]

Yeah my box is a r32 gtr box, but was fully rebuilt with nismo gearsets before it was put in.

I have also heard that grabbing 1st is hard to do also when you have a short shifter kit, which I have.

But I dont have a problem grabbing any gear. Which is weird cause my old 33 box was screwed and I actually had to be rolling sightly forward to be able to get it into first at all and was really annoying.

The stagea on the other hand is a dream to drive and want to keep it that way, which is why I'm thinking of putting one of these coolers on just to add that extra protection to the box....?

[AlexCim]

Redline gearbox oil, will fix everything

[Burns]

I don't know of any manual road cars that use transmission oil coolers.

The fluid in an Auto dose a completely different job to that in a manual.

In a manual the oil's only real job is to lubricate the gears. Where in an auto the fluid lubricates the gears and transmits the power from the engine though the torque converter and into the gears. The only way to get a manual hotter is by putting more revolutions through it or from heat transferred from the clutch and engine. This is minimal compared to the heat generated in an auto. Generally thicker oil in a manual transition lubricates and protects better but when it is too thick (Colder is thicker) it will not flow through the sincros as easily and hence make gear changes harder. If you find changing down into 1st or 2nd hard learn to double clutch and heal tow or try thinner oil.

Fitting an oil cooler will not help you at all. Manual gear boxes do not have oil pumps in them ether, the gears themselves move the oil around. You would have no way of circulating the oil through the cooler unless you fitted an external electric oil pump.

Have a read of these links to learn the basics on how transitions and torque converters work.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

Edited January 30, 2006 by Burns

[Ska]

Thanks for that!

[AlexCim]

Can you overcool ATF?

I have access to a 10x17inch transcooler, but compare that to your 10x11 inch coolers, its about 70% larger in size.

[Abo Bob]

I would think so. I think they have a preferred operating range like I said above.

[AlexCim]

Ok,

I fitted up a DC cooler today.

Took me about 3 hours start to end with the car NOT on jackstands (on the ground)

So, unlike the other guys, i didnt mount the cooler on the stock bracket. I used the zip clip things and mounted it onto the aircon condensor.

I had to move the radiator back to get my hands in there (which i didnt anyway) so the bottom right zip thing i couldnt cut off the end. The rest i did.

I was going to mount it in the stock cooler location, BUT, i thought about the fan sucking air through it on idle, so i put it there. Being flush too, i think it gets even more airflow.

I was also able to mount it a litter higher then the other guys, Its at the very very top corner, getting the most possible airflow.

One thing i want to know though, using the old trick "as much as i take out i put back in" I put in about 2.1 or 2.2L of ATF. How much was i ment to put (I took the effort at the same time to flush the whole system and replaced with Castrol Transmax Z).

I will more then likely open a group buy for the coolers soon

Oh BTW, the cars a little smoother, its a bit less woo-ee (an issue for me) but I dont know. At least this cooler is now hot to the touch, the stock unit i couldnt touch at all after a short drive.

[AlexCim]

Oh, On another note too. I have the lines removed that go around the chassis rail, so my pipes just go right under the radiator to the pipes for the ATF. Hence, I have no loopy pipes or anything.

I do understand that if i bottom out, the pipes could get damaged, but if i bottom out that bad, the swaybar, engine mount, front support bar, chassis rails would be next in line as they are lower anyway.

Bring on the DAYZ front bar for the intercooler, then my cooling issues are set!

[satanic]

Nice one... my install went in the same place as yours; in between the radiator and the FMIC (basically in the stock location).

Using the radiator cover panel I should be diverting a lot of cool (well colder) air into all three items

Nice job on the install, hope for your sake it doesn't bottom out

[Nightcrawler]

so I take it you have to drain the trans fluid before removing the stock cooler?

So, a few noob questions:

1. do you have to jack the car up to get all the fluid out of the trans? I take it there is a sump plug/screw at the bottom of the trans? (have never touched the trans before).

2. how do you stop oil going everwhere when you disconnect the cooler? (or is it all gone one you drain the trans - I am hoping not to have to do this).

3. how do you get air bubbles out of the system?

4. how much oil exactly does the system now hold with DC cooler?

Thanks, Andrew

[Abo Bob]

so I take it you have to drain the trans fluid before removing the stock cooler?

no you don't

So, a few noob questions:

1. do you have to jack the car up to get all the fluid out of the trans? I take it there is a sump plug/screw at the bottom of the trans? (have never touched the trans before).

you pull the top feed to the cooler off and point it into a bucket then turn the engine on. turn it off when the fluid stops coming out. There is a pump sending it out.

2. how do you stop oil going everwhere when you disconnect the cooler? (or is it all gone one you drain the trans - I am hoping not to have to do this).

Only a little dribbles out.

3. how do you get air bubbles out of the system?

Don't worry about it.

4. how much oil exactly does the system now hold with DC cooler?

Probably about 100ml more.

Thanks, Andrew

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'd suggest you put a temperature gauge in for the trans before you bother with this. At least then you will know whether you need it or not.

[AlexCim]

System takes about 2L in total, 2.1L or so with the cooler.

Closing tomorrow, Group buy on tranny coolers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105610

Thanks