Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All. Having been given this car and finding it hard to get any decent values on it, I decided to post up here and see if anyone would be interested in it.

Make: Nissan/Datsun

Model: Skyline/240k

Year: 1978

Engine: 2.4L SOHC Carby

Trans: 3 Speed Auto

KMs: 61K kms. Looks to be original, steering wheel is immaculate, no wear marks whatsoever, even the same with the auto shifter or handbrake.

Interior is in good condition, dash has couple cracks, back seats appear to be perfect, front couple have some rough patches, but have car seats covers over them. Has new standard exhaust. Stock wheels, serviced/major changes - oil/air/trans etc at 50 odd k kms.

Problems : Windscreen squirters are *****, dont make the window. Makes a whine noise sometimes when you go to start. Suspension is starting to squeal. Heater makes this generator noise when on.

So can some GC210 fans give me a price that might be suitable for this. I would love someone to take this off me for parts... so i can get something like a 4 cylinder..

email me if your interested. [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60898-whats-my-gc210-worth/
Share on other sites

Kane,

I just paid $2000 privately, for a 4 door, 5 speed, '78 C210 with 248 000 original kms. no rust, original wheels, steering wheel, seat trim etc. The only reason I bought it is for transplanting an rb motor into it. I could not see anyone paying more than $1500 privately for it if they were to buy it (four door) and keep as is. If you have the 2 door version (good for you) expect $2,000 to $2,500 maximum. Greater demand.

If you found someone who was going to transplant the motor like me expect $2,000 4 door and $3000 2 door.

The C210, to me is a classic nissan that was very underrated (only the engine -power- was its downfall). Good Luck selling it.

However, I am missing all the Skyline badges on the boot and side rear tail guards. If you still have those and you decide to sell it for parts, give me a tinker.

Martin

Kane,

I just paid $2000 privately, for a 4 door, 5 speed, '78 C210  with 248 000 original kms.  no rust, original wheels, steering wheel, seat trim etc.   The only reason I bought it is for transplanting an rb motor into it.  I could not see anyone paying more than $1500 privately for it if they were to buy it (four door) and keep as is. If you have the 2 door version (good for you) expect $2,000 to $2,500 maximum.  Greater demand.  

If you found someone who was going to transplant the motor like me expect $2,000 4 door and $3000 2 door.

The C210, to me is a classic nissan that was very underrated (only the engine -power- was its downfall).  Good Luck selling it.

However, I am missing all the Skyline badges on the boot and side rear tail guards.  If you still have those and you decide to sell it for parts, give me a tinker.

Martin

Mines the 4-Door, and is also completely badgeless (why you'd debadge a skyline I don't know!)

haha those prices are just what I wasn't expecting. I thought less because of their slug motors. I swear with the size of the engine bay, you could fit 2x RB26DETT's easily!!!

Good luck with your conversion!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...