Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya,

i was jus in the process of re-fitting my std BOV to my R33 GTST. looking at the design and function of the std BOV i found myself pondering this question....

as a cheap alternative to buying a aftermarket BOV for that fulli sick thorpey style 'phhhhsssst' sound, would you be able to successfully use your std BOV?

now if you turn the BOV around the other way on the mounting point (yes it bolts the other way, i checked) so that the plumback piece is now pointing upward. and use a slightly longer piece of hose and reconnect the vacume line to it. then block off the pipe that returns to the inlet of the turbo. would the std BOV still function correctly, except instead of venting back into the intake, it would vent atmo instead?

now if this is possible and it works, how come very few, if any skyline (or other vechiles with the same std BOV setup) owners dont use this idea instead of parting with $300 odd dollars for a *brand* BOV?

the other thing i was wondering was maybe the std BOV makes a shit sound when vented atmo and that is why no one does this modification? when i get my cooler pipes back on i might turn the std BOV around jus to see what sort of sound it makes and how/if it works....

feel free to correct or answer any of the above questions or theorys...

cheers!

It will work, just try it, you will get that "fully sick" sound, it will also run like shite, bogging down between gears and backfiring like a biatch,

Stock BOV's leak at idle, so it will prolly idle like poo.

Personally I'd rather have my car running properly. Just get a pod filter and that should be loud enough for you and anyone standing nearby.

Even stock GTR items leak slighty, RowdyR32 had his venting to atmo on his RB26 GTST and it idled like shit, he added some ducted vacuum sockets (which seal under vacuum) and the idle improved greatly but they still leaked under boost.

Looked kinda cool tho with his vacuum flaps snapping open and shut when the BOV vented! :) It was a good experiment but not something you'd do long term, he's now got his own plumb-back piping and it runs a lot better all round.

It will work, just try it, you will get that "fully sick" sound, it will also run like shite, bogging down between gears and backfiring like a biatch,  

Stock BOV's leak at idle, so it will prolly idle like poo.

Personally I'd rather have my car running properly. Just get a pod filter and that should be loud enough for you and anyone standing nearby.

yeah but if you plug the small hole inside the std BOV, then doesnt that stop the boost leak at idle?

That may help

but..

It is possible that the stock BOV will still leak at idle at there is quite a low pressure in the plenum at idle which causes the BOV to open slightly. Soon at you open the throtle, the pressure in the plenum rises and the BOV closes, no problem when the leak is plumed back after the air flow meter.

Someone with more experence may be able to confirm / correct this.

A couple of things...

Boost leak at idle?

You have to get past the whole 'leak' term it's actually a metered air bleed. It's not an accident it's a design and it's a good one. It does not cause boost fluctuations or prevent holding boost. Nothing is 'lost' it all gets put into the motor one way or another.

As for venting to atmo.

It isn't something that can be done easily. Blocking the small hole is only part of the issue, you then have to re-spring the valve is my guess (ideal is an adjustment screw for the spring tension to get it right) plus you will need to have a s-afc or something to deal with the ecu compensation for the recirculated air it's not getting.

Buy an aftermarket one if you must have the sound. As someone mentioned even the addtion of a pod filter will increase this noise a great deal.

But, if you like to muck around I say go for it. You can learn things that way too.

You're pretty much on the money, the spring tension in aftermarket atmo items is usually much higher than stock plumbbacks, a slight leak when you plumb back doesn't matter so its not seen as a problem.

If you get a bigger spring it should help, Nigel from ICE has 2 x GTR BOVs vented to air on his Supra, not sure if he did this (or maybe his dont leak) you'd have to ask him about it.

low pressure in the plenum at idle which causes the BOV to open slightly. Soon at you open the throtle, the pressure in the plenum rises and the BOV closes, no problem when the leak is plumed back after the air flow meter

I never said "boost" leak at idle, I just said "leak" at idle, and I did not say 'leak" was a bad thing (see above). Just that if you say the word "leak" enough times it becomes a rude word. Maybe I should have said "air bleed". Meh...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...