Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas,

In looking at some Skylines, I've seen some R33s around the 70-80,000km mark. They look good enough, but I'm worried that within 1.5-2yrs it would be over the 100,000km mark.

Can one expect significant deterioration in the durables at that stage? For example, if you bought a genuine 50,000km R33, you might only have to replace the durables once or twice in the period you own the car. For a car with more, you might be doing it three or four times.

Just wondering what the maintainence cost implications are because I've been targetting the 40-60,000km mark but I would definitely be opening a few doors if I looked a bit higher..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6094-a-century/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Timmy G

Hey fellas

Is it ok if girls reply? :lol: :)

I would look higher. As you would know, the under 50,000km cars usually sell for a premium price at the auctions....and you can really get more of a bargain if you are willing to be more flexible in this regard.

Look more at the condition, rather than the kms.

As for maintenance, i bought mine with 88,000kms on it and it now has 126,000kms and I haven't had anything go wrong - i've only had to pay for normal servicing costs.

yes it had fairly high kays when i bought it...but it was a grade 4, stock standard car, which is more what I looked at, rather than the kms :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6094-a-century/#findComment-91944
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Timmy G

Yeah sorry I should have said "Hey ladies.. hey fellas" and done a funky Usher dance.

Wow that is really sweet, nothing more than the normal servicing costs.  I hope I'm that lucky, that is really sweet.

Wow Usher, i love him , his so freeqin good,

ANyways, anytime u want Timmy u can gimme a call 95 r33 fs :)

in sydney to :)

51,000kms

DOnnie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6094-a-century/#findComment-91998
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...