Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An aftermarket ECU will give you a noticeable gain over a stock ECU.

Not just in power, but a bit of response too. It makes a world of difference on an RB25, one would think RB26 wouldnt be much different.

Could a PFC and a Adj Cam gear and it will make a massive difference (provided you have an exhaust etc)

hey guys.... iv got an r33 gtst and im looking at buying a power fc but im unshore if i even need to upgrade my stock ecu.... iv got a full 3inch catbach system,fmic,pod filter, and raising the boost to 10psi tomorrow.. do you think the stock ecu will still be ok after i raise the boost???

cheap fix saf-c???

http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp

Its a cheaper way of adjusting the Air/Fuel ratio. It piggybacks on the stock ECU. However, it is inferior to the PowerFC for a number of reasons (do a search and you should find some more info).

ok I have adjustable cam gears trust FMIC and a 3" exhaust with N1 spec engine and steel wheel N1 spec turbos.... will the Apexi FC be the way to go?

Is it manual or auto?

No Power FC's for auto's, so the SAFC is the go.

If its a manual, I would definitely go for the Power FC.:rofl:

Is it manual or auto?

No Power FC's for auto's, so the SAFC is the go.

If its a manual, I would definitely go for the Power FC.:rofl:

It's a GTR man :headspin: Didn't know you could get N1 spec GTS-T's..

williamsf1: Yes a Power FC will drag a lot more potential out of your car with those mods.

It's a GTR man  :headspin:  Didn't know you could get N1 spec GTS-T's..

williamsf1: Yes a Power FC will drag a lot more potential out of your car with those mods.

Shoot, that's what happens when you reply at 2.13AM. That's why the sign says "I don't know everything":cheers:

PS, Yeh the Power FC will give you ~40 rwkw and a much nicer car to drive at the same time.:rofl:

yeah guys, manual it is..... ok the next question is any recommended people to tune this effectively... I can source the FC from Japan or HK (saving about $500) so who will do a good job and not stress the car/engine.....

the bloke a few of the guys were referring to on the thread supplied by gizmo73, Hitman, really knows his S#@t - he uses and sells Haltech computers which wouldn't be a bad idea if your after big HP. Otherwise a powerFC would be the next best thing you could do for your GTR. Plus, the experience of a road tune is hilarious!

he took me out onto the m5 motorway, armed with his laptop plugged into my powerfc, he then said drop into 4th and go...so we go...and at 170 he then says okay back off! this process was repeated about half a dozen or so times!!! whilst your driving hes doing all the tuning etc on the laptop - i found it hilarious!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...