Jump to content
SAU Community

Advice needed from those in the know ;)

MrGTST

By MrGTST,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

MrGTST Grand Master

MrGTST

Posted
Posted

Heya guys....

Just looking for a little advice from some people that have already walked the path of buying and modding stagea's.... I currently have the all too common R33 GTST with just over 300rwhp with mild mods.... and whilst I am very happy with it I am very tempted to trade it in for a stagea :D

Now I have been doing a bit of research and the model I am liking the look of is the 1998 25t RS FOUR 'S'.... With 4WD , NEO 2.5 litre turbo and manual I think would give me a nice start to work with.

I guess what I am wondering is although the model I am looking for is looking hard to find I am wondering what things I should be aware of when looking at making the purchase.... I would eventually like to mod it to make it similar to the MASA Motorsports one with R34 front end conversion :)

But looking at the online shops line Taka and Nengun I am not seeing alot of support for stagea parts... I am guessing they are out there though, things like full turbo back HKS exhaust and Intercooler packages?

I guess I am just looking for some piece of mind that Moving across to a stagea will be worth the time and effort :)

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62152-advice-needed-from-those-in-the-know/
Share on other sites
MrGTST Grand Master

MrGTST

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think the type 'S' is going to be harder to find as from what I have seen at least locally here in perth they have all been auto's.... But I guess with a little patience or even importing one yourself it is possible. I have seen a few being sold at auction so they are out there :rofl:

RB26VL Enthusiast

RB26VL

Posted
Posted
Heya guys....

Just looking for a little advice from some people that have already walked the path of buying and modding stagea's.... I currently have the all too common R33 GTST with just over 300rwhp with mild mods.... and whilst I am very happy with it I am very tempted to trade it in for a stagea :D

Now I have been doing a bit of research and the model I am liking the look of is the 1998 25t RS FOUR 'S'.... With 4WD , NEO 2.5 litre turbo and manual I think would give me a nice start to work with.  

I guess what I am wondering is although the model I am looking for is looking hard to find I am wondering what things I should be aware of when looking at making the purchase.... I would eventually like to mod it to make it similar to the MASA Motorsports one with R34 front end conversion :(

But looking at the online shops line Taka and Nengun I am not seeing alot of support for stagea parts... I am guessing they are out there though, things like full turbo back HKS exhaust and Intercooler packages?

I guess I am just looking  for some piece of mind that Moving across to a stagea will be worth the time and effort ;)

Thanks guys

hey mate i got the rs four non neo rb25/auto and it went and felt beautiful to drive in every aspect, smooth ride, nice interior, alittle long i must admit but i like the fact they are rare and people dont know what they are :( r33 gts-ts r way toooo common these days and i like the idea of 4 doors better than 2 door cars :wassup: and 4wd is awesome for traction in the wet and take offs especially. The neo version and manual would be the best version for sure (besides the autech 260rs :aroused: ) and i would asume be much more $$$ :) but definately worth the money i reckon, and mines got dual electric sunroofs which are nice for summer days :)

i only drove it for 2 weeks in that form and now its off the road for the next month for a new engine/box (rb26/gtr 5speed) :headspin:

cheers

Brad

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
But looking at the online shops line Taka and Nengun I am not seeing alot of support for stagea parts... I am guessing they are out there though, things like full turbo back HKS exhaust and Intercooler packages?

I guess I am just looking  for some piece of mind that Moving across to a stagea will be worth the time and effort :O

Thanks guys

All of the engine hard parts (cams, pulleys, injectors, exhaust manifold, FMIC, pipework etc ) for R34GTT will fit. So it is not necessary for parts suppliers to list them separately. The only physical difference is wheelbase, that's why the exhaust is listed separately.

Power FC (for a manual) is an interesting question, I am not sure whether I would go for an R34GTT or R34 GTR Power FC. Each has its own issues. The R34 GTT Power FC may not have the necessary 4wd outputs. On the other hand the R34 GTR Power FC will expect to see 2 X AFM's and it won't have output for the infinitely variable VVT. I have run a GTR Power FC with one AFM, I simply parralled up the inputs, that way the PFC thinks both AFM's are showing the same voltage (airflow). But the VVT issue is much harder to overcome.

Bottom line, I would ask Apexi which Power FC they suggest.;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...