Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62165-r32-rebuild-where-to-from-here/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

the mines ECU is holding your potential back, its strange you put engines fuel supply last. It does not matter how tough you build an engine, poor fuel delivery and tuning can quickly have you back to square one. eg. a well tuned stocker can outlast and sometimes outperform a poorly tuned built engine.Paul...DIRTgarage.

No, A powerFC should be next.

 

If you want to stretch the stock injectors a little you should also get an adjustable fuel pressure reg. The stock injectors 'I THINK' with a bit of fuel pressure max out just under 300rwkw.

280-300rwkw sounds about right to me (if you run the math)

do i NEED a hand controller with the PFC - or can I use a laptop

Guest two.06l
Sorry guys - quick correction  

It's not mines - it's Blitz. It's still got to go tho

any input on rwkw for the inital setup ? (I'm hoping for ~250rwkw @ 18psi)

we made 284rwkw on a stocker with cat back 3" exhaust, power fc running base map and AVC-R boost controller.

9881DIRTgarage_dyno1.jpg

Everycar is different, and so are the dyno's there are run on ... in saying that you should be well over 250rwkw as you can get that with stock turbo's

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

Guest two.06l
was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

we tweaked the injector correction values to achieve the A/F ratios,running 1 bar boost with stockies.

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

and adj cam gear is worth a good 20rwkw on a GTR

noticed 5000km was mentioned as a run in period is this seen as the mark for boost increases to higher levels?... I have an engine in exactly the same spec as itbilms (trust cooler and factory ECU) and it has currently done 1200km and had the 1000km oil change....

motul 8100....

I am running 13.5psi max with most running being done on the 9 psi low boost setting.....

I have not taken it to the dyno as yet, as I have had the car for all of 3 days!

just a few questions for those more in the know than I.....

what is deemed a safe boost?

Apexi FC seems to be the way to go, are bigger injectors needed? and will they bring a gain for the $$$ or are they just going to give a high potential later with other things done....

oil cooler? when is it deemed a must do?

any worthy advice is certainly wanted ;) you can never know too much about these cars!

I've stuck with mineral oil (Motul 4000 10w30) until 10,000km's.

Its probably a little overkill as I only really needed to stay with mineral oil until 5,000km's.

I figure its best to be safe than sorry and have a motor that has a bit more blowby than it should have.

Up to 10,000km's is what they yank's usually do and is what is recommended for a lot of new cars before changing to synthetic. Thats the main reason for my decision.

My motor, run 16psi since it was bedded in on the dyno using mobil1 synthetic right from the start.

Nothing wrong yet, down'd 5000km's so far

MAjor car manufacturers use synthetic right from the get-go, so am i

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

first power fc and hand controller

second afms (rb20/25 are good to 540rwhp and much cheaper)

third 700cc injectors (i dont know about pump as i'm making 525rwhp on std unit)

also when you do afms upgrade all your inlet piping to turbos

and with these mods with good exhaust you should easily make mid 400rwhp

only my opinion hope it helps ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...