Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All! Ive just ordered a Tein Super Street kit for my 34 (if theyre no good its too late now anyways!! hehe) - has anyone used these before? I heard theyre ok for our roads cause they can be adjusted to be quite soft but also give a good feel on the hard setting?

also with adjustables is it a given that the lower you go with them the harder they should be set?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62177-tein-super-street-comments/
Share on other sites

I got some for my r33 gtst last week and I havn't found the ride to hard at all, you definetely feel the bump more and have to slow down on bad road but not uncomfortable. The handling improvement from the standard gtst is like a different car and adjusting shocks makes a large difference for body role. As you lower the car you actually losen the springs, so they are actually softer for lower and harder when the car is higher.

They feel great to me, though I haven't had much to compare against. I have never used adjustable suspension before, but I found that it can make a huge difference on the track. Was understeering terribly on the track, a few turns of the damper and the understeer was almost gone.

The ride is actually better (not as hard) as my old stuffed shocks and lowered springs. So was a huge improvement everywhere in my R33.

Sydneykid: Pretty much all the information is available here:

http://www.tein.co.jp/ssdamp2ne.html

And just because I am nice, I worked out all the conversions (there may be an easier way!!). According to the booklet I received with the suspension they are 4kgf/mm front and rear.

From the references:

1kgf/mm = 9.80665N/mm

Therefore:

4kgf/mm = 39.22660N/mm

From the references:

1N/mm = 5.714 lbf/in

Therefore:

39.22660N/mm = 224.1407lbf/in

Therefore the answer is 224lb springs front and rear.

References:

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Tech...e_conversio.htm

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu..._reference.html

PS: Thanks for all the excellent posts Sydneykid, when I see your posts I stop and read them from start to finish. ;)

I do it this way.....4kg/mm X 25.4 (mm's in an inch) X 2.2 (lbs in a kg) = 224 lbs per inch.

Which is OK for the front, but still too high for the rear. I would guess that they are still trying to compensate for the low rear anti roll by running a higher than necessary (to hold the car up) rear spring rate. A stabiliser bar upgrade is a technically superior solution. In the real world that means it won't compromise the ride comfort as much and allow much better (less wheelspin, more traction) launches.

:D

Well your way made a lot more sense! Glad I still came up the correct answer though :D

I really like this suspension, its hard but not too hard even for my 100km/h country roads. Compared to with my previous stuffed stocks with lowered springs its pure bliss, I don't have much else to compare too I'm afraid. :)

I had the front and rear set at 2 points (12 point adjustable from memory) from the softest setting. The rear was also set way too low (probably 30cm centre to guard). I found that in a straight line under acceleration you could feel the rear compress significantly and it was very difficult to get any wheel spin at all (i have allow subframe bushes too) - probably pretty good for the drags but not so great round the corners.

I've since changed the rear to about the 5th or 6th point (in the middle - probably too hard this time!) and the the front to the 4th setting. I've also adjusted the height according to the spec sheet ~ 33.5-34cm centre to guard front & rearl. Very much looking forward to testing this out at the next track day... once I've replaced the turbo :D

I'm looking at getting some upgraded front and rear sway/stabiliser bars from whiteline - would this be the next logical progression or would I be better off to get some more caster in the front?

From memory the spec sheet said 33.5cm centre wheel to guard. From the posts I've read (mostly Sydneykids!), the reccommendation is 34 - 35cm.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...center+to+guard

Also checkout these:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_1..._Skyline01a.htm

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/Fact_Shee...line_R33GTS.PDF

Hope that helps :P

so they are actually softer for lower and harder when the car is higher.

Sorry Reedy, but I need to kill this quickly............

A 200 lbs per inch linear rate spring takes 200 lbs to move it one inch, or if you prefer....

A 3.5kg/mm spring takes 3.5 kgs to move it one mm.

It doesn't matter whether that is the first inch (mm) or the 10th inch (mm) it still takes 200 lbs (3.5kgs) to move it one inch (one mm).

The amount of preload is determined by the weight of the car. If that corner of the car weighs 400 lbs (182 kgs) then the spring will need to compress 2 inches (51mm) to hold it up. But it still takes 200 lbs (3.5kgs) to move it the next inch (25.4mm).

Progressive spring rates USUALLY compress all of the softer rate just in holding the car up. ie; they are progressive to make sure the spring doesn't go loose at full droop. They are not progessive to make the ride softer initially. This is not ALL progressive sapring just Most of them.

Hope that makes sense :P

I just received one of them!!!! (yay!) - gotta wait for the rest now.. :cheers:

Did any of you guys sets come pre-set with what at least Tein would say is the best settings for the car?? I was reading something on the internet and it sounded like it says they are already pre-set?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...