Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey adrian unfortunatly i wont be racing, my jap spec roll cage didint even come close to passing the engineers requirements, everything changes after 10s, need full race suit, kevlar cover for bell housing or what they call shatter sheild, 5 point harness, so im out for another month or so

hey adrian unfortunatly i wont be racing, my jap spec roll cage didint even come close to passing the engineers requirements,  everything changes after 10s, need full race suit, kevlar cover for bell housing or what they call shatter sheild, 5 point harness, so im out for another month or so

What happened to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...4058#post954058 hahaha you were told it wouldn't pass months ago :D

im buying a straight bolt in one, anyways if they dont accept it, ill just change the plates over and drag like my first time

I don't think Jap cages are built to one particular standard anyway.

As for tech inspection, I am sure that I was told by another drag racer that a half cage is passable, but can't recall under what circumstances. Anyone?

As for tech inspection, I am sure that I was told by another drag racer that a half cage is passable, but can't recall under what circumstances. Anyone?

Half cages are not acceptable. The rules are clearly laid out in the ANDRA rulebook. you need a minimum six point welded cage.

Half cages are not acceptable. The rules are clearly laid out in the ANDRA rulebook. you need a minimum six point welded cage.

I spoke to some people in the know last night and was told that for a car that runs 10.00-10.99 a half cage is fine. Any quicker and a 6 point cage is required. I was also told that (techncally) it didn't have to be welded in, but that ANDRA won't pass it if it isn't.

I spoke to some people in the know last night and was told that for a car that runs 10.00-10.99 a half cage is fine. Any quicker and a 6 point cage is required. I was also told that (techncally) it didn't have to be welded in, but that ANDRA won't pass it if it isn't.

Yes, you're right. As long as the trap speed stays under 140 MPH and the ET is slower than 9.999 you can fit a half cage with an intrusion bar. I don't think you'd bother though because it's easier to get the full cage done and be done with any more hassles no matter what ET or trap speed you run (as far as roll cages go).

4.4.7 Roll bar/cages

Street registered cars with a fixed steel roof and unmodified monocoque construction running between 10.00 and 10.99 (1/4 mile) and/or less than 140 mile per hour (225 kph).

Single rollover hoop covering the full width ofthe drivers compartment with two bolted backstays and a bolted side intrusion bar constructed to ANDRA requirements as a minimum.

All other sedans, sedan based or open vehicles 10.99 and quicker.

Full roll cage mounted at a minimum of 6 points.

Hey all the classes are DYO - where is the fun in that? Was about to fax the entry form until I saw that.

So not only do they have a specific DYO class based on E.T., but now all of last years heads up classes are reduced to a pathetic, boring, grandma class. The only heads up category is the Pro RWD? Street racing is not drag racing, but someone hitting the brakes before passing the timers is not drag racing either.

Ahh found the small print

PRO RWD will race heads up with quickest 8 vehicles competing under the 3 Round Formate System. Sport FWD, Sport RWD/AWD, All Motor, Front Runner, Sport Mod & Oz Mod will race on a Dial Your Own Handicap system with the quickest 16 vehicles competing in Elimination Style racing. Non-qualifiers with these classes will automatically drop into the ET3 Bracket for non-qualifies and continue racing elimination style.

Quickest 16 across all the classes? Or per class?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...