Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently got some 18" rims and tyres put on my R33 S2, and now would really like the car to sit about an inch or so lower. I was thinking about putting some lowered coils on the factory shocks, but I know all the suspension places tell you that you MUST fit matching shocks or you will surely go to hell for all eternity.

Interested to hear from any SAUers who have just changed the coils and kept the factory shocks. What sort of springs would you recommend, and how do you find the ride is with just the shorter coils? Did you have any issues with wheel alignment?

The car is only street driven, and I may upgrade the shocks at a later date, but right now things like a decent exhaust and FMIC are more of a priority.

oops - just realised I probably posted this on the wrong forum. Can somebody move it to the Suspension section?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64537-lowering-advice-needed-on-an-r33/
Share on other sites

When you are only lowering by an inch it won't matter.

You will only have to get short travel shocks if you put super lows in and they are 50mm drop.

You may suffer some driveability problems if the shocks are very old but if you are upgrading soon then it won't matter.

When you change the springs....just make sure you put new bump stops in (strut mates - available at any supercheap or repco) this will help to stop it from bottoming out if by any chance you suddenly get airborn for no reason.

18's will give you a stiffer ride by themselves which I'm sure you will have already noticed. The springs by themselves will increase your cornering ability and overall ride comfort. They will be roughly 30% heavier duty springs so even though they are lower, they still maintain the same, if not better, spring rate. However, laws of physics say that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. This means that if you stiffen the suspension, you are more likely to suffer tower flex or stress on the rear bushes. I would recommend fitting strut braces with the springs also.

Leigh,

Who did you order the Kings through? I was going to try and get out to Inline at Qbn or Revell at Tuggers, but I guess most suspension shops could order them in?

BTW - I have some spring compressors you are welcome to borrow if you plan on doing your own......

yea john i am doing the same except on only 17's. Just ordered some "lows" made by king springs i think they are called which are meant to be like 25 or 30mm lower.

Thanks for the tips Daniel.

Just wondering though, what's the difference between the standard bump stops and the Strut Mates?

When you are only lowering by an inch it won't matter.  

 

You will only have to get short travel shocks if you put super lows in and they are 50mm drop.  

You may suffer some driveability problems if the shocks are very old but if you are upgrading soon then it won't matter.

When you change the springs....just make sure you put new bump stops in (strut mates - available at any supercheap or repco) this will help to stop it from bottoming out if by any chance you suddenly get airborn for no reason.

 

18's will give you a stiffer ride by themselves which I'm sure you will have already noticed. The springs by themselves will increase your cornering ability and overall ride comfort. They will be roughly 30% heavier duty springs so even though they are lower, they still maintain the same, if not better, spring rate. However, laws of physics say that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. This means that if you stiffen the suspension, you are more likely to suffer tower flex or stress on the rear bushes. I would recommend fitting strut braces with the springs also.

Nothing, you'll only need to replace them if the originals are shagged. Most people just throw them away when they are stuffed thinking that they are not important.

Even the boot that covers the shaft.. if that is torn, replace it. It prevents dirt from damaging the seal on the shaft. Generally if they are ok though you won't need to worry about it. It's one of those things that if it is not looking healthy, replace it coz otherwise you'll end up having to rip all the shocks out again to install a simple boot or bumpstop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...