Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On an R32 you reroute the rear power steering supply (the one that goes to the solenoids on the front RHS inner guard) via the power steering cooler back into the power steering fluid reservoir. You can remove the two solenoids at the front and the one at the rear, plus the supply and return pipework. All up saving of ~20 kgs including the rear rack.:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1210701
Share on other sites

i dont want to remove the lines just incase want to put it back

was thinking to feed the lines into eachother

The HKS thingo is best for the non weight saving "i might put it back route...

Comes with piggy back thing for HICAS 'puter to stop all the false dash lights

Good Luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1211645
Share on other sites

Sometimes my car would start pulling to the side once i hit 65 - 70 and the HICAS kicks in. It feels like drifting but without the wheel spin. The steering wheel has to be turned up to 2 o'clock to get the car to go straight. Once i slow down bellow 60 it fixes itself up.

Also, after about 10km the HICAS light would come on and then i guess the HICAS comp would shut itself off and the steering would straighten out.

Now I've just unplugged the computer in my R32. The dash light doesn't come up now and it drives straight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1212089
Share on other sites

or, u can just take out the hicas light bulb on the dash...

don't the hicas lock kits come with a bar and a couple of metal washers you have to put somewhere on the steering rack? I always thought it wasn't as simple as unplugging a few things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1212199
Share on other sites

why would you want to put it back?

ive removed all of the hicas piping and soldenoids, i opened up the powersteering pump and removed the rotor that pumps the fluid for the hicus. then i just put a bolt in the place where the pipiing goes. as mesnioned above, it saves weight and also heaps of space in the engine bay.

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1212289
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

PHATR32 the pump in the diagram, is that for rb26dett, and the rb20det pump out of the r32?

I assume (looking at the diagram) that the only differences between the GTR model pump and the rb20 pump is the suction pipe?

Could you tell me what manual the diagram came out of? (Ive got the r32 engine manual, but not here on my gf's comp) could you send me the pages that tell you how to pull it apart, and rebuild it?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64617-hicas-lock-bar/#findComment-1348158
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List: 1.Anna S 2. Luke S 3. Jesse Givens-Lamb 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Madeleine Stamatescu    
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...