Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so I am staring to get sick of 200rwkw and would like to increase the power up to about 250rwkw, my car is a r33 gts-t series 1. I have a plan for this but first here are the Mods that I currently have made to the engine.

  • HKS Pod With CAB.
  • 3' turbo back zaust.
  • FMIC.
  • APEXI Boost Controller (PFC).
  • APEXI Power FC Pro.
  • Adj Zaust Cam Gear.
  • Ceramic 5 Puck Clutch.
  • Oil Catch Can.
  • NGK Irraway 7 plugs.
  • Supra Twin Turbo Fuel Pump (Jap Spec) It sould be up to the task.

I think thats it...

So heres the plan: Get a GCG 450hp Hi-Flow, Nismo Fuel Pressor Reg, Z32 AFM and a re-tune...

I was thinking of other options instead of the hi-flow which include GT-RS, GT25-35, GT28 etc etc but from what I have heard the hi-Flow should make 250rwkw and is cheaper and easier to fit, plus its EPA friendly :rofl:

The big factor here is going to be funds (I dont have a money tree :{)

Sorry about the longish thread... Any comments will help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64629-my-next-mods-comments-please/
Share on other sites

I have everything but the bigger injectors and really dont want to spend the money on them at the moment. Who is Dyno Dave and has he tuned hi-flows to 250rwkw before??? I think Sydney Kid said that he had a couple of rb25's make 250rwkw with hi-Flows

if you pm deatschwerks (David Deatsch [[email protected]] ) he can sort you out with a set of 550cc injectors at a V reasonable cost ... like half of hks type price ...

anyway, dave tuned my car and got 240kw at 13 psi with a gcg high flow .. basic mods are fmic, pfc, 550's, high flow, 3" turbo back, pump, pod

not bad really ... dave really is a total whiz when it comes to finding horsepower !

if he has not tuned it before, then its prolly not worth tuning as far as i can tell ...

Not really interested in the injectors at the moment guys, I know you can get 240-250 out of the stock ones and i dont have a spare $700 to spend on something I dont really need.

So far it sound like i should go for:

Z32 AFM, Fuel Reg & hi-flow tuned by Dave...

Is there anything that I have left out that I may need (excluding injectors :rofl:)

I'd go

Z32 AFM (cos you have too)

Hi Flow (cos you have too)

Fuel Reg (cos you have too)

Cams (so the power curve is fat like yo mama)

SK has those car doing 250+ with cams.

BASS OUT

Dont think I can afford the cams at the moment.

So far the setup will cost as follows:

1) fuel Reg (about $180)

2) Z32 AFM (about $300)

3) 450 hp gcg hi-flow turbo ($1900)

4) About 250 for a re-tune (local place I use)

Totalling about $2630. I cant afford another $1000 + for cams & install....

Do you thinkt he new cams will push you over the 200kw mark, say 210-215 maybe??? Anything less than that would not make it worth while I reckon...

Cams cost about $750 + at least $250 to re-tune totalling $1000

PS, Who keeps changing my comment above my avatar to rb25de :{

Damn.

 

 I want somebody to fit cams on a standard engine and turbo to see the results.

 

 Look's like I'm going to have to do it myself.

bass junk : please do man cause quite honestly id love to see how it goes... cause my next step is getting a restrictor bored to 10psi constant... off stock except POD, BOV... and i cant remember what else, theres stuff all shes pretty much STOCK :rofl:

if only i had the cash id like to see what it can pull myself... but i guess once i start getting cash... this might be a good time for people to start making a thread of what i should do for the first hit of mods and see what it gives ;)

i'm only talking of my experiences here, but ..

a. you dont need a fuel reg

b. the standard afm is fine for the power figures i am running

c. yep, that turbo price is about right - i think i paid that, or thereabouts

d. get someone who REALLY knows his way around a pfc to tune it properly ...

have a look at 'my results' thread i started, 240kw @ 13psi is deffo doable with all the right bits / tuner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...