Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well - it turns out my R32 was running R32 N1 turbos already – I've just ?upgrade? to R34 N1's.

It's a long story but I already had the R34 N1s when my engine died, and I honestly had NO idea my orginal turbos where N1 too.

Soooo

I now have a pair of R32 Nismo N1s for sale

P/N : 14411-06U00

Comp A/R : .60

Ex A/R : .64

both in VGC (done about 47000klms) no shaft play etc - where running fine when my bottom end gave way :D

I have NO idea how much these things are worth - but I'm watching an eBay listing for a similar pair (.48 Ex housing tho) that is currently selling for ~1400 ish

talk to my ppl - I don't want/need these anymore - and I'm open offers I 'spose

I'd like some input on their value too pls

will clean them up this afternoon and post some pics for anyone interested

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65100-r32-nismo-n1-turbos-x-2-vgc/
Share on other sites

heheh how funny this happened to myself this week aswell everything besides the rebuild bit.. i took mine off to upgrade to 34sn1s and they were 32 n1s on it .. from my research $1500 upwards mate.. good luck with it..

OK

I'm no expert - but as far as I know they are steel wheeled, but NOT BB (someone correct me if I'm wrong)

They are rated @ 300ps each - and I think they should be good for at least 18psi (maybe 20 with a good FMIC)

I was getting a lazy 210awka on my GTR with std everything running 14psi boost (pots 4 and 6 where shot tho). They give good boost early and hold on strong across the full rev range (I have the output of a power run somewhere if you're keen)

They should be good for at least 250-280awkw (good street turbo) with the right mods. Again someone correct me if I'm wrong.

In terms of price - I agree with OoHArrGTR - $1500+ sounds like a bargain to me. I paid almost $3K for my R34 N1s - and when you see the pics (if you give me your email) you can see these turbos are in VGC - I can't get ANY shaft plat at all !! I cleaned them up this afternoon and the look great.

Having said all that – I'm open to offers at this point

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...