Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chris32 may be able to be of help as he is running GTR injectors.

You could work back the calc and find out the lag time via his compensation values.

I too am interested in the stock specs as I am about to fit larger injectors to mine.

With power FC for standard injector's you just set them back too 100% and 0.00ms as long as its a RB20 PFC.

Yep thats a firm....

And this is using the PFC calc for GTR LI type. Treat as base point only. Remember these modifications should only be carried out by a qualified technician.

Press. Timing Lag Flow

@ 2.55bar 0.579 -0.15ms (440)

@3.05bar 0.577 -0.12ms (485)

@3.55bar 0.580 -0.14ms (525)

TT

thanks targa for the info.....so at base pressure if i put the injecotors in and use 61% injector compensation on all six injectors and change the lag to -0.15 , it should be ok to crank over and idel half decent??

So is it fair to say, that the rb20 270 cc injectors have a lag of 0.922ms campared to the gtr 440 injectors which have 0.772ms at base pressure???

Also i put my pfc in last night with the stock injectors, its starts but idle is rough as guts. I did the recommended things from the manual....let it idle with no electrical load......then with the demister on.....then with a/c.......but it was still rough as. Anyone got some tips?? also it had a huge flat spot at 2000rpm. I wanna be able to drive it from home to the tuner.

i just wanna have everything ready for the tuner so all he has to do it tune it when i get the car there.

Cheers

hey cubes.....i didnt initialize it, as it was brand new out of the box....but i'll hook it up again and see how it goes....all i did was switch the boost option off and start the car from there.....

when u intialize do u switch the car off then back on???

Not having a go at you dude, but why not just drive the car to the tuners without the PFC, pull up out the front, lean over and plug it in and tune it. Im sure you can cosmetically fix things up when you take it back home i.e. put kick panels back etc etc.

yogi,

Yep, when you initialize you then switch off the ignition and back on again.

When I initialize mine it sets the boost control option automatically off.

If you need to compare any base ign,fuel map settings let me know and i'll take them down and post them up.

If you have warm starting issues drop in another 5ms in to the cranking section of the settings menu.

From memory 80+degree's defaults to 4ms. Set this to 9ms, continue adding 5ms until you get down to around 30degree's or what ever it is.

Cold starts on mine were perfect, just the warm starts that were a bugger.

Thanks for the help cubes.....i will give it another go tommorow and let yas know how it goes. :D

Hey sproosy the only reason i need the pfc to goto the tuner is because the car is having 440cc injectors and resistor pack installed. The car will run like a bitch with the stock ECU and the 440's, if it runs at all.

Cheers

Chris32 may be able to be of help as he is running GTR injectors.

 

You could work back the calc and find out the lag time via his compensation values.

 

I too am interested in the stock specs as I am about to fit larger injectors to mine.

As the other guys said - stock injectors, just set the values back to zero

When I installed my 440cc GTR injectors and resistor pack, I started it with the stock computer, as I figured if it was wired wrong, I'd rather torch a stock ECU than the PFC. It started first crank, but as expected, ran as rich as one of those big ass racing trucks :D

Also did the same with the Z32 AFM, it started ok as well

One thing to all 32 PFC owners, when you get it tuned, make sure the water temp correction settings after 60 degrees are set to 0.00, otherwise your car will detonate if your water temp starts to rise. Found this out at a track day, as my car was always at about 70-75 water temp when it was tuned.

After a few blasts, the water temp would get up to 80-85, and due to there being water temp correction (making it slightly richer up to this point) adjustments up to 75 degrees on my car, after it got a bit hot there was no correction, and hence the car actually leaned off and started to detonate.

Its not hard to fix, just that with the correction on, the injector map isn't a true representation of what is being measured on the dyno, as its taking the injector map and adding fuel for certain water temp values. Of course, this is needed for cold start etc, but once your car is up to running temp, there is no need for such correction

Targa Tom, any joy with interfacing a GTR air temp sensor? I heard with FClogit, there is air temp correction, which would be bloody useful if you could interface a air temp sensor

Chris

i was looking at doin this too chris....trouble is tracking a GTR air temp sensor first (or buy a new one)

Interesting to note is my PFC is using a q45 afm (and is set as a std r32 one) and has 550cc injectors installed, but has no injector correction, or lag time set....Got me confused how it runs, but its not been properly tuned yet by Shaun...

odd, you'd think it would run like a pig

the injector correction is for when its running in closed loop, lag time i am not sure about, just set it to what I was told to set it too what it is now

I guess Shaun just tuned around all these things?

yer...he did a damn good job, because he couldnt get it to idle at first, then add the larger afm, and the pump / injectors for the run in. I then went for the power tune, and the damn muffler is too small (from a reputable exhaust shop in the city) so i had to upgrade that too....

Just waiting to get it fitted, then im back into see Shaun. It does run perfeclty well however setup as it is (apart form a slightly high / hunting idle (aac me thinks))

Go the straight thru 3.5" like I got done mate :D Guaranteed to wake the dead. Only the rear 'muffler' if you could call it that!

Mine back in next few weeks fingers crossed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...