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rb20det 270cc Injector Lag Timing

yogi000

By yogi000,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Chris32 may be able to be of help as he is running GTR injectors.

You could work back the calc and find out the lag time via his compensation values.

I too am interested in the stock specs as I am about to fit larger injectors to mine.

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
With power FC for standard injector's you just set them back too 100% and 0.00ms as long as its a RB20 PFC.

Yep thats a firm....

And this is using the PFC calc for GTR LI type. Treat as base point only. Remember these modifications should only be carried out by a qualified technician.

Press. Timing Lag Flow

@ 2.55bar 0.579 -0.15ms (440)

@3.05bar 0.577 -0.12ms (485)

@3.55bar 0.580 -0.14ms (525)

TT

yogi000 Mentor

yogi000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks targa for the info.....so at base pressure if i put the injecotors in and use 61% injector compensation on all six injectors and change the lag to -0.15 , it should be ok to crank over and idel half decent??

So is it fair to say, that the rb20 270 cc injectors have a lag of 0.922ms campared to the gtr 440 injectors which have 0.772ms at base pressure???

Also i put my pfc in last night with the stock injectors, its starts but idle is rough as guts. I did the recommended things from the manual....let it idle with no electrical load......then with the demister on.....then with a/c.......but it was still rough as. Anyone got some tips?? also it had a huge flat spot at 2000rpm. I wanna be able to drive it from home to the tuner.

i just wanna have everything ready for the tuner so all he has to do it tune it when i get the car there.

Cheers

yogi000 Mentor

yogi000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey cubes.....i didnt initialize it, as it was brand new out of the box....but i'll hook it up again and see how it goes....all i did was switch the boost option off and start the car from there.....

when u intialize do u switch the car off then back on???

sproosy Grand Master

sproosy

Posted
Posted

Not having a go at you dude, but why not just drive the car to the tuners without the PFC, pull up out the front, lean over and plug it in and tune it. Im sure you can cosmetically fix things up when you take it back home i.e. put kick panels back etc etc.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

yogi,

Yep, when you initialize you then switch off the ignition and back on again.

When I initialize mine it sets the boost control option automatically off.

If you need to compare any base ign,fuel map settings let me know and i'll take them down and post them up.

If you have warm starting issues drop in another 5ms in to the cranking section of the settings menu.

From memory 80+degree's defaults to 4ms. Set this to 9ms, continue adding 5ms until you get down to around 30degree's or what ever it is.

Cold starts on mine were perfect, just the warm starts that were a bugger.

yogi000 Mentor

yogi000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help cubes.....i will give it another go tommorow and let yas know how it goes. :D

Hey sproosy the only reason i need the pfc to goto the tuner is because the car is having 440cc injectors and resistor pack installed. The car will run like a bitch with the stock ECU and the 440's, if it runs at all.

Cheers

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted
Chris32 may be able to be of help as he is running GTR injectors.

 

You could work back the calc and find out the lag time via his compensation values.

 

I too am interested in the stock specs as I am about to fit larger injectors to mine.

As the other guys said - stock injectors, just set the values back to zero

When I installed my 440cc GTR injectors and resistor pack, I started it with the stock computer, as I figured if it was wired wrong, I'd rather torch a stock ECU than the PFC. It started first crank, but as expected, ran as rich as one of those big ass racing trucks :D

Also did the same with the Z32 AFM, it started ok as well

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

One thing to all 32 PFC owners, when you get it tuned, make sure the water temp correction settings after 60 degrees are set to 0.00, otherwise your car will detonate if your water temp starts to rise. Found this out at a track day, as my car was always at about 70-75 water temp when it was tuned.

After a few blasts, the water temp would get up to 80-85, and due to there being water temp correction (making it slightly richer up to this point) adjustments up to 75 degrees on my car, after it got a bit hot there was no correction, and hence the car actually leaned off and started to detonate.

Its not hard to fix, just that with the correction on, the injector map isn't a true representation of what is being measured on the dyno, as its taking the injector map and adding fuel for certain water temp values. Of course, this is needed for cold start etc, but once your car is up to running temp, there is no need for such correction

Targa Tom, any joy with interfacing a GTR air temp sensor? I heard with FClogit, there is air temp correction, which would be bloody useful if you could interface a air temp sensor

Chris

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

i was looking at doin this too chris....trouble is tracking a GTR air temp sensor first (or buy a new one)

Interesting to note is my PFC is using a q45 afm (and is set as a std r32 one) and has 550cc injectors installed, but has no injector correction, or lag time set....Got me confused how it runs, but its not been properly tuned yet by Shaun...

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

odd, you'd think it would run like a pig

the injector correction is for when its running in closed loop, lag time i am not sure about, just set it to what I was told to set it too what it is now

I guess Shaun just tuned around all these things?

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

yer...he did a damn good job, because he couldnt get it to idle at first, then add the larger afm, and the pump / injectors for the run in. I then went for the power tune, and the damn muffler is too small (from a reputable exhaust shop in the city) so i had to upgrade that too....

Just waiting to get it fitted, then im back into see Shaun. It does run perfeclty well however setup as it is (apart form a slightly high / hunting idle (aac me thinks))

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Go the straight thru 3.5" like I got done mate :D Guaranteed to wake the dead. Only the rear 'muffler' if you could call it that!

Mine back in next few weeks fingers crossed

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