Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mason mate. I take it you have the PFC in monitor mode with the peak hold switched on? You will find that the huge knock reading is from when you started the car with the peak hold still on. try this. switch car on, turn on peak hold, turn car off, now turn car back on and you'll see knock of like 80+. clear the peak hold (but leave it on) and now do a run. My worst knock reading was 30 something and that's with a 7000rpm launch...
Hi Richard, yep I had the PFC in monitor mode with peak hold switched on during each run. I usually don't have any probs with knock on start up (it usually stays under 10), but I actually cleared the peak hold just before I went into stage each time just to get an idea of the peak values during each run. The worrying thing was that the engine light started flashing during my run, so I backed off pretty quickly once that happened.

I spoke to the guys that tuned my car this morning and they're going to have a look at it on Saturday...apparantly it's only a minor adjustment.

nick, it's running around 12psi. I say around cause I haven't verified it with a proper boost gauge yet (just going off the reading on the profec).

Flaps, glad you liked it mate. The car is lightly modded. cat back exhaust, pod filters and PFC are the main power mods. I do like to launch at 7000rpm though :P

Mason, yeah, it's always a good idea to clear the peak as you get to the end of the queue. It's not a knock problem on start-up it's mechanical noise from the starter etc and the engine firing into life. just be aware that the knock sensor doesn't just detect engine detonation it can detect other vibrations too (and display them falsely as detonation). You are doing the right thing to have your tuner look at it though.

is there a website that has event pics from WSID street meets? I know of the little yellow van and I'll email them, but there were heaps of photographers there.

Yeah I had a chat with him, he's running a GT35 and was on Mickey thompson slicks with front runners the thing was launching that hard the rear was hitting and there were sparks

Really wish i'd given slicks ago with the old setup :)



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
    • Genuine is best. I have to replace my SIL's Audi A3 DRL module because the $20 alibaba special one has faded within a month... Sigh...
×
×
  • Create New...