Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale,

Nearly new Blitz Boost Gauge white faced, needle lights up red i think. looks really great, payed $280, sell for $180, or together with a GReddy Single pillar gauge holder, for $250

so here again for less confusion:

Gauge : $180

Pillar: $80

Complete together: $250

Pillar is brand new never used, in grey color (undercoat)

Plz forward enquiries to:

[email protected]

or 0422 34 67 67

or just PM /write here.

thanx

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67247-blitz-boost-gauge-and-greddy-pillar/
Share on other sites

i belive its universal fit, but it was originally meant for a R33.

see pics below, it can probably fit up to a 2inch gauge.

see for yourself, the hole has not yet been cut out, so you modify it if you need for smaller or bigger gauge.

perfect fit for the one i have.

thanx CerealKiller, i didnt know what they are mech or elec, i actual got somone asking me about that, i told them its elec heh shiiiT, lol.

Yeh like you said, its the best one, they look bloody crazy at nite. accurate, quality, loooks and sickass brand.

so yeh, great price i think, however ITS NEGOTIABLE, so pop me some offers thru ppl.

thanx for the free Bump 'ABuSD', but the BOV has been sold with the car mate.

I got a standard series 1 bootspoiler if you like heheh :cheers: and this gauge, ahh yeh i also got a Manual Custom Bleed Valve Boost controller, if you are interested.

let me know

Ahh yeh, if anyone interested, i also have a Boost Controller, (Custom Bleed Valve) for $50, Gold in color, but has been sprayed over into black so its less noticable. Can incoperate into a deal if purchased all together as a bundle.

hey nice gauge, do you still have it?? still for sale???

thanx, but unfortunately the gauge has now been sold, however the GREDDY Pillar pod is still available for sale.

If you are keen on it, PM me,, thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...