Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

true gel coat can be brushed on but i dont like sanding for hours to get the brush marks out

That's why I was saying use sandable GC. It's alot softer and easier to sand but still has the strength of normal GC. This is what they use in alot of boat hull repairs and the stuff can be buffed up to a high finish.

Have a look for a a place like fiber glass international, here in Brisbane they are pretty well equiped with all your needs.

Agreed Du pont are the shit, they make the best stuff but you'll pay for it. Sikkens or Standox are also up there with the best and are alot cheaper.

I've been told by a fibreglass manufacturer that gelcoat is NOT what I need to use on the top, because its out of the mould. They've told me that Flow Coat is what I need to use, and its basically the same price, but slightly different in the way it dries. He says it will fill out the dips, and give me a good base for painting.

Re-enforcement has been arranged, I know how I'm going to do that, and I've sourced 450gsm csm for under 10 bucks a square meter. Not decided on what I'll do with the top. However, re fibreglassing the bottom may solve some of the hassles I have with the top of it. I'll be able to assess it more when thats done.

Thanks, Jase

I've sourced some really low cost fibreglass and resin, gelcoat and all other associated bits. I'm wondering if I can put the money into a mould and new bonnet, rather than into fixing mine. If it was a straight bonnet, there would be no question about it. However as I want a vented bonnet, my only query about making a new mould, is how do i actually make the shape of the vent and put it on the surface of my bonnet so that I can actually create the mould?

Obviously the surface of whatever i use needs to be perfect, or at least something that I can make perfect once complete, before the mould is made.

Any ideas on this??

Jase

it can be done but every mould that is made allways has imperfections and require corrective rebuilding. it's probably simpler to fix what you have than to go through the stress of building a mould and frame. sorry i hate sounding negitive

im use to bulding boats and boat moulds

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...