Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, diagnosis goes like this.

1st when under load/wot from 4000rpm onwards, check engine light flashes and dumps heaps of fuel smoke.

2nd when under load/wot from 4000rpm onwards, check engine light flashes and dumps heaps of fuel smoke.

3rd when under load/wot from 4000rpm onwards, check engine light flashes and dumps heaps of fuel smoke.

4th when under load from 4000rpm onwards, check engine light flashes and dumps heaps of fuel smoke. (only know from braking and accelorating to put under load)

5th when under load from 4000rpm onwards, check engine light flashes and dumps heaps of fuel smoke. (only know from braking and accelorating to put under load)

The car has got, Power FC, apexi fmic, apexi avcr (set to 1bar), running standard turbo and tomei cam gear. Don't ask me what it's set to cause I have no idea. Coil packs have been replaced and I'm running Splitfires. Fuel pump, regulator, injectors are all standard.

The light only used to flash occassionally (when I say occassionally, I mean.. VERY occasssionally) when at the drags or giving it heaps on mountain runs (I know that's just general pinging before it becomes audiable) then it's gradually gotten worse where I now I have to drive like a granny otherwise the check engine light starts flashing at me.

Thoughts at the moment are, AFM? or fuel pressure regulator (still only got the standard one) or the o2 sensor.

Any information would be most helpful. I thought it may have just been a tuning issue, but the more we think about it and investigate it further, the more we think it might be a part failing as such.

I'll be testing the afm today and swapping it with a friends to rule out that situation. Any other suggestions?

Also, is there any easy way to test that the o2 sensor, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump are going so we can try and rule those alternatives out as well?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

EDIT: with just general driving to and from work, I haven't lost any fuel economy either, if anything gained it because I can't put my foot down.

Hey Nismo Girl ... I had sort of the same problem, but it was only when I let off the gas ...

It generally means that your injectors are maxing out, or you are getting bad knock. What senors are ebing monitored on the hand controller ? I have mine set to Water Temp, Inj Duty, Knock and Revs ...

You can check the O2 sensor with the hand controller (if you have one). I can't remember off the top of my head how, but if you like, I can find out and post it up.

All sensors can be checked on the same screen, my mate has a 400hp skyline and his was having bad issues with the engine check lite, upon inspecting the sensor screen, his exhaust temp senor (in the cat) had died, unplugged it and it is all good ...

sorry if this sounds like gibberish, but I have just woken up.

Thanks ... Ian

I dont have a hand controller :P

Maybe I'm going to have to wait till friday when it goes to the mechanic to see what's wrong. I just wanted to try and have it all fixed cause theres a fair lot of stuff that needs doing plus I've got it booked in to get it tuned. I thought that may have been the problem, but I'm thinking otherwise now.

I didn't think the settings on the pfc could change? Therefor, what it was tuned to shouldn't change meaning the knock shouldn't change?

I'm sure I could get hold of a hand controller before friday but it might just be easier to hand the keys to the mechanic and ask him to fix it.

Hrm.. well seems to be the AFM. We swapped it over this arvo and it only seemed to flash very top of 2nd around 6500rpm.

So we took to mine with some contact cleaner and it seems to have gone now. I'll test it during the week but if it still plays up, looks like i'll be in need of a new afm by friday :)

I said to Andrew "maybe we should buy a hand controller" and he said ".. **** that"

Contact cleaner r0x0rs :D

Id still look into getting a hand controller... it provides valuable information, and next time something like this happens, you can just take 2 seconds to look at the hand controller and know whats going wrong.

I dont have a hand controller :D

Maybe I'm going to have to wait till friday when it goes to the mechanic to see what's wrong. I just wanted to try and have it all fixed cause theres a fair lot of stuff that needs doing plus I've got it booked in to get it tuned. I thought that may have been the problem, but I'm thinking otherwise now.  

I didn't think the settings on the pfc could change? Therefor, what it was tuned to shouldn't change meaning the knock shouldn't change?

I'm sure I could get hold of a hand controller before friday but it might just be easier to hand the keys to the mechanic and ask him to fix it.

Its not about the settings changing.....its not the settings that make the knock...its a lean mixture or timing....now a crook fuel pump,reg,afm can cause a lean mixture

the engine light flashing quickly means the car is knocking, drive it softly until you get it onto a dyno, because the knocking will destroy your motor, dont keep doing it like you have been...

It could also be injectors or AFM running out.

If you see the check engine light flash from ping, you should be able to hear it

It's never been audiable knocking otherwise I wouldn't have driven the car at all.

At this point in time (after driving to work today) it hasn't happened again after me pushing the car at the points it used to always happen.

As mentioned, the car is going to the mechanics on friday for a service and tuning. I'll get the mechanic to chuck the hand controller onto it if the problem persists. He's informed me to just keep an eye on it, and let him know on friday.

I also don't see how a hand controller could have told me my afm was dirty? :confused:

With the hand controller you could have turned off all the warnings then went through each one in turn to see which one triggered the engine flash light (theres 3 items). You could see your injector duty, afm values and knock levels, straight away you would have known what was causing the engine flash. you could have also gotten the afm and 02 values and known if they were working (in a sense the values they return are ok) or you could posted what the values are and someone could have commented on them. you coudl have also done a map tracer while someone else was driving the car and you watch what map its reading and load poiint then check out the load vs rpm for injector or timing and see what the values are like compare to other rpm and load values, for comparsion only unless you want to change them (and are confident in doing so).

i tihnk the hand controller is very handy

also you can see other things that may be wrong that you cannot see in the normal monitor mode, by going into the sensor check screen..

say if the tps is not working properly and the voltage drops too low the value will be hilighted so you can see what is causing the engine check light to flash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...