Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.. i just bought a r33 and i do not know much about these cars as i use to drive a 180sx.. newais i am wondering if it is bad runing 2 bovs? i have the stock one still on and an aftermarket one.. i have been told to remove and block the stock one... How do i remove the stock bov? my car idles normal and fine..anyone have pictures or sumthing to show how to block the stock bov or remove it? thanks im a noob lolz..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68731-how-to-remove-stock-bov/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

good morning newb.

2 bolts where the bov attaches to the crossover pipe. remove large plumb back hose, remove boost signal hose. Block off plumb back hose. Signal hose can be used for A/M bov. get a metal plate, drill 2 holes to match those on the cross over pipe. and bolt it on with some sort of rubber seal to stop leaks.

Or you can leave it on and make you car a look a little more stock.

I am running 2x BOV's at the moment.. one stock and the aftermarket..because it came as part of my intercooler piping. The Blitz one doesn't open really at all (much stronger spring), so you do need to block the stocker.

Like chef said, some plate metal, some tin snips and a drill should do it. I actually built a blocking plate for the Blitz as blocking the stock one has been known to cause idle problems.

Might put the blitz back on when I am running higher boost and you can actually *hear* it :D

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...