Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BRAND NEW TURBO KIT FOR RB20/RB25DET

SPECS:


· T3/T4 .50compressor housing, .63 exhaust housing, 5 Bolt exhaust.

· (1) 90-degree and (1) 45-degree pipe for Downpipe

· Brand new 8.7Psi Wastegate

· Brand New Dual Type 50mm BOV

· Set of Turbo accessories

· One full set Oil Line and fittings

· Oil return Line kit

. Stainless (High mount) Manifold - STAINLESS with Lifetime Warranty

Price is $1500 + delivery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68763-500hp-turbo-kit-for-rb20rb25det/
Share on other sites

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

What kinda lag wud u get with that on an rb20 and what boost levels are best through it?

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

I know plenty of people using Master Power turbos and making big reliable power.

very similiar to XSPower....

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Most turbos that die are due to poor quality turbos like XSPower

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110947

]

The Ebay seller you bought it off

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...