Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My r33 has just got here from Victoria and it has a apex pwer FC, due to transport i asked the seller to turn the Rpm limiter down to 3,500rpm so it couldnt be thrashed. Does anyone know what i should set it at?? it has a few mods so ill list them and please let me know what would be a good point to set it at.

EXTERIOR

Freshly fully painted

Full Top Secret lower skirt body kit

Bomex carbon bonnet and carbon rear spoiler

Mirror window tint

Veilside mirrors

G-Max 18 x 8.5 front and 18 x 9.5 rear wheels

INTERIOR

Cusco 6 point roll cage

Sequential shifter

Apex-i AVC-R Boost controller

Apex-i Power FC

Apex-i Turbo timer

Pioneer MP3 Player

Kenwood 6" front and rear speakers

Uras raceing seat

Nismo 320kmph cluster

ENGINE

HKS GT25-30r Turbocharger

HKS screamer dump pipe

Trust front pipe

Kakimoto full exhaust system

Blitz SpecR front mount intercooler

Nismo 555cc injectors

Apex-i super intake suction pipe

HKS pod filter

Z32 Air flow meter

Greddy oil filler cap

Greddy oil air seperator

Ogura twin plate clutch

R33 GTR Brembo calipers

U-project 360mm disc rotors

SUSPENSION

TEIN HA full adjustable coil overs

Section Sports rear adjustable camber arms

Section Sports adjustable front castor rods

Section sports solid balljoints

Section Sports solid mounted rear cradle

Section Sports adjustable traction bars.

Not that you neede to know all that, it was just easier to cut and paste. haha

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69001-r33-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

would it make any more power past the stock 7000 limit?

i always thought you had to had the block work and cam work done to make more above the stock rev limit. that being said my car makes it max power at around 6100 and the power gets a bit less after that so i wouldnt see a need to set it to say 8000?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69001-r33-rev-limiter/#findComment-1278172
Share on other sites

Yeh well my last SKYLINE had a dyno read out of 260rwhp at 6,700rpm so yeh i ghess it dont have to be much over that

would it make any more power past the stock 7000 limit?

i always thought you had to had the block work and cam work done to make more above the stock rev limit. that being said my car makes it max power at around 6100 and the power gets a bit less after that so i wouldnt see a need to set it to say 8000?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69001-r33-rev-limiter/#findComment-1278184
Share on other sites

Yeh bought it of Rob at Creatd motorsports, i live in W.A so i dont realy know much about the car, like whether its been drifted ect.. do you know anything about it???

Yeh i think it was at the drift bonzai last november or december, looks like a very nice car.

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69001-r33-rev-limiter/#findComment-1278395
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...