Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After any sujestions for connecting a Mini Disc player into my sound system. I have a normal CD Head unit connected to two amps one running splits the other a sub. Both outputs from the existing head unit run the amps. I would like a system within the cabin where I could switch between both the MD and CD player.

Thanks for any help.

I havent approached a car audio place yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/
Share on other sites

What brand/model deck is it?

I know Pioneer sell an auxiliary kit that has rca inputs. it works via the p-bus system (same plug for pioneer stackers).

No idea on cost, but that's the best way that i know of.

The other option is to just buy a MD/CD combined head-unit. Or even better, forget the MD and get an MP3 unit. They are sooo gooood!!! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104605
Share on other sites

It is a Kenwood head unit so I will see if they have the same device. The MD is MP3 compatable as well as Atrac, WMA and WAV natrually. As well as up to long Play 4. Records from any media including fibre optic for true digital as well as USB. So as you understand it is not going. If anything goes the headunit could except the fact I wouldnt have radio. The MD alternates between two cars, pushbike and air travel at work and the gym on rare occasions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104609
Share on other sites

This can be done. I'm planning to add a Creative Nomad Jukebox to my stereo soon. If you wanna keep it cheap and simple then you'll just have to plug the MD in whenever you want to use it.

Just connect the MD player to the amps via the RCAs. Use the headphone socket on the MD and plug a PC audio cable into it (the one that runs from the sound card to the speakers, ie headphone jack at 1 end and 2 RCAs a the other). Disconnect the RCAs from the head unit and plug them into the PC lead. You might need to get a few RCA jack to socket converter thingys (bout $2 each at electronic shops). That should be about it. In effect, the MD becomes the head unit. Just plug the RCAs back into the head unit when you want CD/radio.

I'm planning to set up a bracket in the centre console compartment to hold mine. The RCAs will come up through the bottom of the box and go to the amps and head unit. So all I'll have to do is just connect what I want, and its all tucked away neatly.

A few things to remember:

. If you have more than 1 RCA pre out one the head unit, you will lose fader control with the MD.

. If you want to connect the MD to both amps you'll need RCA spliters/double adaptors (again, about $2 from elec shops). Make sure the right channels are connected to other right channels only and vice versa.

. Does the sub amp have a built in crossover??? If not, dont connect the MD to the sub amp.

. When you first play a MD, make sure the volume is right down low. The gain settings on the amp might not agree with the signal coming from the MD... but this should not be a problem.

. This whole set up should only cost about $20-30 and take maybe 2 hours to install. I'm not sure of what quality of sound you'll get tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6964-md-connection-help/#findComment-104845
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...