Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been looking at alot of information relating to cars power output. Now most people say well on the dyno it did 200hp but on this dyno it did 300hp so therefore it must have 300hp, but as we all know differnt dyno's read differently and other factors come into play.

So how would you measure your cars power accurately, i have read allot about MPH at the track as in general around 120mph mark will put you in at around the 400hp mark. once again lighter cars will have less power but still do around that MPH, Could you possible meaure engine output by means of injector flow, ie, 440cc injectors at 100% duty cycle will flow enough fuel to make 88hp each at 11:1 AFR or something like that, so therefor these injectors at 100% will flow enough fuel to make 88hp x 6 = 528hp at the engine. but it is too hard to equate what it has at the wheels due to unknown loss through the drive train into heat. say for example we do loose around 25% that equals around 400rwhp

now i have tried to make sense of it all, and it does kinda work, just say that a gtr, does 450hp on a dyno at a proper ramp rate, but the standard 440cc injectors and standard AFM's are maxing out, now at the track the car actually does do 120mph or there abouts, does this mean that the car actually has 400rwhp, cause the injectors cant flow enough fuel to create over the 528hp, and the Afm's can only measure enough air to allow enough fuel to be burnt to create 528hp, factor in the given 25% loss it does equal around 400wrhp,

Now can this equation acutally be used, like does it work in your minds. And how much do you think is actually lost via heat in the drive train. 25%? so which would be right, the dyno or the calculations as they are reasonable similar?

Corret me if im wrong on anything, as thats what im hear to do is learn of others.

Cheers

Zenith

i think the most accurate way is a shootout mode dyno, such as a dyno dynamics. it calculates what ever power the car makes at the wheels and rounds it off to 25 deg ambient temp. so that when you compare your cars run in brisbane in summer at 40deg abmient temp to another skyline run in shootout mode in tassie in winter on a 10deg day the results are comparable as the dyno rounds it up from 10deg ambient to 25deg. it also factors in humidity and so forth. so the output you have is comprable to the one in tassie despite completely different ambient temp.

the problem still remains that a well looked after dyno is going to be somewhat more free rolling that a poorly maintained one... dyno's are good for competitions and comparisons on the same dyno (ir tuning purposes)... other than tha they dont hold much cred IMHO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...