Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i'm here to just to make a whine,

got defected today at Burwood NSW..

coming out of a back st then a cop follow me pulls me over,

make me folow him to burwood cop shop, they've got an RTA inspection centre there setup,

defects are:

usual stuff

BOV, pod, and exhaust,

seats no engineering cert,

boost gauge above steering wheel, (i looked at its leveled) fuc.ken

and one thing, indicator TOO LOW ON MY BODY KIT? i mean wtf?

i never heard dat b4..

i'll attach a pictur of it, i mean fair enuff for the other stuff, but my indicators too low?

FU.ck off

funny thing is not even a minute after i was there another White skyline was there LOL r33

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70400-defected-fudgedddd/
Share on other sites

blue slip easy easy to fix, dont even need to change anything for about 100 bucks my mate clears all defects, sorry cant give out any names. but you should be able to find someone

thats great info, "for about 100 bucks my mate clears all defects, sorry cant give out any names"

thats great info, "for about 100 bucks my mate clears all defects, sorry cant give out any names"

mate , you love giving it to ppl eh?

fine i got 70 for worn out tyres at the front, stupid ass ppl dat did my service didnt even tell me, and 138 for driving an unsafe vehicle...

i know the defects are easy to clear but how hard is it to get an engineers certificate for the seats?

Its the DC5 recaro replicas...

ok i called up queen st smash repairs, the guy was wondering wat the *** they saying about the indicators.. i mean fair go, queen st must be a reputable place, if they say it's stupid......

If I was a cop pulling you over I wouldn’t have defected you for any of that stuff... just your veilside monstrosity...

"Sorry but your not allowed to make such a beautiful car ugly, so I'm going to have to give you a $200 fine & you must upgrade that body kit to stock, 400R, Gracer, or any other visually improving body kits in under 4 weeks... on your way son...."

Bad luck tho man, hope u find a mechanic to quickly pass it for the right money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...