Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all...

I have a HKS 2.8L STROKER CRANK up for sale...

CRANK IS BRAND NEW

Only removed from box for Picture purposes...You will also be able to Buy different Conrods + Pistons to suit the 2.8L crank...May be a cheaper than the Full Kit

Reason for Sale :: Change in Plans with the Bottom end of the car...

WANT : $5000 for the crank

I am also able to sell this whole kit as FULL HKS 2.8L KIT as i have:

****BRAND NEW HKS STAGE 3 PISTONS 87mm****

and

****BRAND NEW HKS STAGE 3 CONRODS To suit ****

I may be needing the pistons and rods...But the crank must be sold...

If anyone wants the FULL HKS 2.8L KIT Im after $9500 for it all....

Let me know

If anyone is interested

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71269-brand-new-hks-28l-crank/
Share on other sites

im interested in the whole 2.8l kit, but not sure about the 9500 price tag

Hey there,

have a look at HKS site

It is as follows:

HKS CRANK : 4,442.45

HKS STAGE 3 PISTONS 22mm: 2,386.23

HKS STAGE 3 CONRODS: 2,513.16

total: $9341

On top of that pricing i paid Shipping + Tax

So if you wanted the same kit i have then you would be looking at around $11,000-12000 DELIVERED may be even more depends...

If your still not interested in that price Then you could always buy my crank then buy cheaper conrods + pistons to suit the 2.8l stroke...

Up to you...

Yeah you can put it in an RB20/25/26/30 block. 20 and 30 would need customs pistons tho.

So with the RB25 forgies and RB26 rods and RB25 head this crank would work without anyother mods?

and would it be worthwhile in a RB25?

So with the RB25 forgies and RB26 rods and RB25 head this crank would work without anyother mods?

and would it be worthwhile in a RB25?

Im not to sure i dont think that its that simple though..

But i will find out for you

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...