Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all Newbie to this site but I am told this is where to come for all the answers...I have a R33 which is Automatic (yeah I know nans car and all that but I have been driving for 17 years and manuals get boring after a while) I have installed a 3" Stainless mandrel exhaust and a Intercooler not a monster one but big enough, I have wound the boost upto 12psi. I ran a 14.8 without the intercooler and the boost at 10psi, now I want to run a low 13 sec or a high 12 sec if possible but I still want it driveable on the street. Has anyone any suggestions for a turbo (bolt on preferrable) that while get me the time but not the hassel on the street. I reckon the car would do a Low 14 sec now its just the launching I have to get done pat.

:headspin:

Ta for any help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71287-which-turbo/
Share on other sites

before changing the turbo you should consider the following parts as you'll certainly be mxing them out and they will need to be upgraded, generally the turbo is the last thing to change as all the stock components wont be able to keep up

injectors

- stock injectors are 370cc will max out at about 200rwkw

fuel pump

- stock pump will max out around 200rwkw

airflow meter

2:17 PM 24/04/2005

- stock afm rb25 will max its 5volts around 210rwkw

engine management

- youll have big draw backs with stock ecu, aftermarket will give best benfit to all the upgraded components, allow tuning and adjustment and also support upgraded components

3" dump and front pipe and hiflow cat

- if you have the stock front and dump and cat they are restrictive and should be changed. 3" turbo back is a good setup, you said 3" exhaust, not sure what you have changd etc

tyres

- what tyres are u using? youll need some fairly good tyres for grip

automatic gearbox upgrade

- the stocker gearbox (auto one) will be placed under heavy load above about 200rwkw. im not sure exactly what level it is considered bad for it. you shoud look at a transcooler for it defenitely. do a search on auto transcooler a lot of guys over 200rwkw fit them

cold air intake

- wether a pod with a heatsheild and cold air feed or hiflow panel filters in the airbox. just make sure it gets cold air and the air is forced directly to it.

suspension

- stock suspension is probably okay but youll benefit from some better springs, pineapples, damper kit or some form of suspension work

having said all that you can certainly do a cheaper version or an expensive version

here's probably two "okay" options

option 1

220rwkw

turbo

- rb25 hiflowed or hks 2530

injectors

- s15 480cc injectors

fuel pump

- skyline gtr fuel pump

airflow meter

- z32 air flow meter

engine management

- remapped stock ecu or apexi safc or greddy emanage. you wont be able to change to a full aftermarket ecu such as apexi powerfc cos it wont support the automatic gearbox. most ecu's wont support it. so best would be remapped ecu with limits taken off and changed fuel maps. youll need a remap to run bigger injectors. apexi safc will support z32 airflow meter. stock ecu by itself wont support z32 airflow meter.

3" dump and front pipe and hiflow cat

- you may already have these, if not then get your local exhaust shop to do it or buy one from the forums under for sale section

tyres

- 245's or 255s on the rear

automatic gearbox upgrade

- transcooler

cold air intake

- pod with cold air setup

suspension

- pineapple kit to prevent axle tramp

option 2

260rwkw

turbo

- hks gt-rs or garrett gt28rs

injectors

- 550cc injectors

fuel pump

- skyline gtr fuel pump

airflow meter

- z32 air flow meter

engine management

- full aftermarket engine management. have a search on some ecu options. i know powerfc and wolf wont support auto skyline. when we or i say wont suport as in it wont speak to the gearbox during gear changes, so the gearbox just gets mistreated and excess load placed on it. the ecu doesnt have automatic shift logic built it and wont know how to handle the auto gearbox. if you still insist on aftermarket ecu then change the gearbox. one that isnt electronic then you can choose whatever ecu you like. transbreak or a modded vl turbo box, something that is mechanical will work great.

3" dump and front pipe and hiflow cat

- a must have

tyres

- 255s on the rear

automatic gearbox upgrade

- transcooler and stage 1 shift kit. speak to vl turbo guys (calaisturbo.com.au) and have a look around for upgraded automatic ideas/suggestions

- plently of vl turbos use auto boxes and get massive power figures

cold air intake

- pod with cold air setup

suspension

- pineapple kit to prevent axle tramp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71287-which-turbo/#findComment-1315992
Share on other sites

LoL big ass List dude^. mate since u already got a 3" exhaust best thing to do is hiflow ur turbo wat is on ur r33 now. wit that turn up the boost to 14-18psi and u will get into the low or mid 13sec's depends how good of a driver u are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71287-which-turbo/#findComment-1316208
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...