Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Having problems with my steering wheel shaking at 80kph and anything over 120kph. It's been happening ever since I got my new rims and tyres (235x45R17).

I took into a mate of mine, who used to work for Pedders, and now has his own business. He seemed to think it needing a wheel balance.

I've had new Whiteline adjustable radius rod bushes installed and a Whiteline rear control arm (upper) adjustable camber kit waiting to go in. It's got a front strut brace fitted & pineapples fitted, otherwise has stock suspension.

I've had several different workshops/tyre joints re-balance the rims and everytime they said they're fine. Also had an on-car balance done and it was all good. The only thing I couldn't do was a 4 wheel on-car balance.

I've had the Pedders suspension check and spring test done and it came up fine.

Will the rear camber kit fix the problem?

Anyone with some more suggestions would be much appreciated, as I don't want to keep hurting my baby.

:rofl:

Kyran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71753-help-with-suspension/
Share on other sites

what rims did you get??? maybe they are warped or buckled from the factory. also do you have new or second hand tyres?? maybe they have an egg in them.

a mates 180 does that too, its got a sloppy steering rack though.

get someone to wobble the steering wheel slightly while you look under there for any steering parts that have movement in them. all parts should be tight, and move together as one, if one moves a bit before moving the next component then it can cause dramas.

these are annyoing problems to develop and could be a number of components.

good luck champ

cheers

Linton

Similar problem here. Get a vibration over 100km/h after fitting new rims and tyres (18x8's with 225/40's). Wheels have been balanced three times and alignment done twice, all good. Have been doing a bit of bit research on various forums but I have not found any definite answers. Like NZM.031 says there are many components making up the suspension. The original, worn-out suspension rubbers are probably having trouble coping with the bigger, often heavier, wheel. You will have to get under there and look for excessive play. I found that my tension rod bushings are leaking and I will change these out within the next two weeks. Vibration at speed is also a sign of worn shocks. The standard shocks are good for about 60000km. Again, the worn shocks could be having trouble controlling bigger, heavier wheels. I found someone with a similar problem on a 300zx forum. His solution related the centre hole diameter of the wheel. Basically, the weight of the vehicle should rest on the centre hole of the rim, not on the studs. Most aftermarket rims are made to suit a variety of cars and have quite large centre holes. This means that the weight of the car rests on the studs. Apparently this can cause balance problems. Switch back to the original wheels and see if this solves the problem. I have sold the original wheels so I can't test this theory. Start by eliminating the easy stuff. I've been slowly replacing worn components with new items but the vibration is still there. Eventually I will end up with a fully adjustable race suspension set-up but with my luck the shaking will still be there.

Good luck.

Similar problem here. Get a vibration over 100km/h after fitting new rims and tyres (18x8's with 225/40's). Wheels have been balanced three times and alignment done twice, all good. Have been doing a bit of bit research on various forums but I have not found any definite answers. Like NZM.031 says there are many components making up the suspension. The original, worn-out suspension rubbers are probably having trouble coping with the bigger, often heavier, wheel. You will have to get under there and look for excessive play. I found that my tension rod bushings are leaking and I will change these out within the next two weeks. Vibration at speed is also a sign of worn shocks. The standard shocks are good for about 60000km. Again, the worn shocks could be having trouble controlling bigger, heavier wheels. I found someone with a similar problem on a 300zx forum. His solution related the centre hole diameter of the wheel. Basically, the weight of the vehicle should rest on the centre hole of the rim, not on the studs. Most aftermarket rims are made to suit a variety of cars and have quite large centre holes. This means that the weight of the car rests on the studs. Apparently this can cause balance problems. Switch back to the original wheels and see if this solves the problem. I have sold the original wheels so I can't test this theory. Start by eliminating the easy stuff. I've been slowly replacing worn components with new items but the vibration is still there. Eventually I will end up with a fully adjustable race suspension set-up but with my luck the shaking will still be there.

Good luck.

It is ESSENTIAL that the wheel centres match the hubs, you can buy inserts (donuts) that fit into the rims if the centre hole is too big. Go to any decent tyre service and have them measure the hub and the wheel centre. It has been my experience that 99% of the time, running vibration is due to wheel balance or off centre wheel location on the hub. I have only found 1 or 2 cars that have had other causes, tailshaft out of balance or bent drive shaft/axle. And that is most unlikely on a Skyline, those components are very over engineered.

Braking vibration is usually due to warped disks, but obviously you only get that when you put your foot on the brake pedal.

:D

I had exactly the same problem. Got new tyres and asked for a 4 wheel alignemnt. Problem solved, no more shaking and its solid as a rock at high speeds. I think my rear wheels were a fair way out of alignment as the before and after data sheet showed alot of changed from before and after alignemnt. If that makes any sense.

  • 3 weeks later...

SydneyKid, cheers for the help mate. Had some rings made up for my car, the wheel is now centered on the hub but still no luck. The vibration is still there. My next step is to change the worn tension rod bushings and get the rims checked and balanced again.

  • 1 month later...
Hi guys,

Having problems with my steering wheel shaking at 80kph and anything over 120kph. It's been happening ever since I got my new rims and tyres (235x45R17).

I took into a mate of mine, who used to work for Pedders, and now has his own business. He seemed to think it needing a wheel balance.

I've had new Whiteline adjustable radius rod bushes installed and a Whiteline rear control arm (upper) adjustable camber kit waiting to go in. It's got a front strut brace fitted & pineapples fitted, otherwise has stock suspension.

I've had several different workshops/tyre joints re-balance the rims and everytime they said they're fine. Also had an on-car balance done and it was all good. The only thing I couldn't do was a 4 wheel on-car balance.

I've had the Pedders suspension check and spring test done and it came up fine.

Will the rear camber kit fix the problem?

Anyone with some more suggestions would be much appreciated, as I don't want to keep hurting my baby.

:)  

Kyran

Hi there, sorry to drag up an old thread but I recently purchased new rims and tyres (235x45R17) - same size as yours - and I have exactly the same problem!

I have had balancing and alignments done as well as the plastic hub inserts installed but still have that annoying steering wheel vibration.

I found your thread via search as I would like to find out if you managed to resolve the issue. It is annoying the crap out of me. :)

Hi there, sorry to drag up an old thread but I recently purchased new rims and tyres (235x45R17) - same size as yours - and I have exactly the same problem!  

I have had balancing and alignments done as well as the plastic hub inserts installed but still have that annoying steering wheel vibration.  

I found your thread via search as I would like to find out if you managed to resolve the issue.  It is annoying the crap out of me. :(

I had the same problem on the Stagea, brand new tyres, standard rims and it had noticeable shake from 90 kph and quite bad at 100 kph. Took it back to have the tyres checked, all was OK. Still shake, shake, shake. I put up with it till I had to do a trip to Melbourne and back in 3 days. Enough was enough.

So I took it to a friend of mine who runs a huge tyre shop and we tried the wheels on 3 different balancers. All 3 showed different results, but 2 were pretty close, so we used them. Back onto the Stagea and no shake since.

My best suggestion is to take it back to whoever balanced them last time and ask for them to be checked. If you can find an on car balancer in your area maybe give it a try, they will pick up any fitment issues.

I have had the same problem with other cars, so it's not a Skyline problem. Hop onto any specialist car forum and you will always find some guys with vibration

problems.

:D

YAY! Happy news! I took the beast back to the tyre place and they performed an 'on-car' wheel balance (front wheels - left wheel was out so they 'rotated it on the hub') and VIOLA! - the vibration has gone.... :) HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY!! Hope this helps all other peeps with 'bad' vibrations :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...