Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: FS Brand New Garrett GT42 Turbo, direct from garret USA

Item Condition:Brandnew, Never fitted to a car EVER

Price and price conditions: $2085ono (make an offer) Which is $1000 under trade price.

Extra Info: This is the exact same turbo as Grant Dixon and a few other key players. 94mm Exducer, 56Trim, 1.15 Exhaust Housing. Perfect for Huge HP.

Pictures:

picturea0022ux.th.jpg

gt42r049yv.th.jpg

gt42dim7uf.th.gif

gt42compress0db.th.jpg

Contact Details: PM or reply here

Location: Brisbane

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Will sell localy or will post Interstate

URGENT SALE MAKE AN OFFER

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71977-fs-garett-gt42-turbo/
Share on other sites

QQQQ, I garantee this turbo is not a Chinese Turbo, infact I purchased it direct from Garrett in the USA. The writing in the front cover has been sanded off for a smooth polished finish.

Here is a photo of it before the polishing.

gt424ch.th.jpg

The polishing was done by a friend of mine who polishes show cars and bikes as a full time job for a living!

I am open to offers however I have already been offered $1800 but looking at a little bit more.

This turbo is worth $3000 trade price + $200 for this show polish!

Cheers

Sam

Well put it this way, i have a frined of mine here is Brisbane in a Datsun wagon that has an internally stock (just forged pistons and rods) SR20DET .

He has a GT42 Compressor with a GT40 turbine, he at full boost (25psi) by 4600rpm

So i dare say that the extra air flow and 600cc capacity of the RB26 would counteract the smaller exhaust turbine. I would expect similar results.

Thanks for the bump.

Guys I need to sell this turbo as I have already purchased a replacment.

Here is what i am offering.

Hey for $2085 I'll do:

1. GT42 Turbo ($3050)

2. Show Polished Front Cover ($200)

3. Postage to you ($30-50)

4. 5" SS USA made exhaust V-Band ($130)

5. 5" SS 15cm Long flared pipe to suit above V-band and Turbo.

So for what i paid $3500 for new you get for $2085 new unused.

Here are some more pictures to put it in perspective, i don't think people understand just how big it is.

Rear dump pipe comparrison with a AA battery. Note the rear wheel is 88mm so its looks much smaller there due to perspective.

turbo1142ze.th.jpg

Front polished cover (batteries not included) Comes free with a book on "how not to suck up pedestrians"

turbo1097rl.th.jpg

Mug shot - side on with V-Band dump pipe

turbo1123vf.th.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...