Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, ive got a r32 gtst with a wolf 3dv4. i want to be able to control boost with a wolf by using a r33 boost solenoid. However the r32 does not have one so i have to wire it in. I guess one of the wires goes to earth and the other goes to the wolf. has anyone hooked up a boost solenoid and know what wire to hook it into the ecu? thanks for ur help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71986-wolf-3d-boost-solenoid/
Share on other sites

How's it going.

The wolf has the ability to set your boost to what you want as well as boost cut.This has to be set up with your hand piece or laptop.

But to make your factory boost control unit work correctly off pulse is not easy , i am still having problems with mine. Who has been tunning your wolf . Is it going well?

If you have your ecu pluged into the factory harness, as i i9magine you have , then the wires going to your factory b controll is live as long as your ecu is set up as mentioned above. Are you installing a after market boost controler. I have a brand new precision 12v actuator valve that is simple to install if you need one.

Hey guys,

It took me ages to get this right.

Ended up getting a mac vavle (about 80 bucks) to control the gate, wiring in a new wire (to pin 5 I think), then setting a boost table. You need to put a resitor in the line :cheers:

Ended up getting a mac vavle (about 80 bucks)

Out of interest where did you get this valve from for that price?

MAC valves are excellent and are the ones used by the turbosmart eboost.

You dont need to use this tho if your on a very tight budjet. You may need to put a restrictor in the line from the wastegate to the solenoid and this will work tho you will need to change restrictors depending on what boost you wanna run. Also you wont be able to run your lowest boost setting with this set up (ie 6-8psi) but a bit higher but this shouldnt cause a problem. I had a skyline vavle on my wold3dv4 with no probs but you need the restrictor in the line or it wont work at all. Without the restrictor my car ran 6psi but with it in place is ran 10psi at the minimal setting and 15psi with valve fully opened. The skyline valves are really quite limited in the flow capacity they have.

But I would get a MACs valve cause they control your boost very very well and they're a piece of piss to set up. There are only 2 wires on the valve. Go to turbosmart.com.au and that should explain everything for this valve tho they dont say its a MAC (I think) the valve is definately a mac.

Hope this helps

Out of interest where did you get this valve from for that price?

HP Race Engines got it for me, but I don't know where.

I had to get a boost table set up on the dyno to control to boost throughout the reve range, otherwise it was pretty uneven, pulling between 12 - 19 psi (which is a big gap).

Pin 5 is where mine is hooked up (I think its the auto tranny line).

If you guys ever need a good tuner for Wolf3d's and lives near Wagga (or want to travel) Hayden from HP is really good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...