Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

and its still stuggling to get any decent power :rofl:

Its so hard to listen to these whale songs... gives me a headache.

*sigh*

More power than you Mr extra 1/2 litre :)

Don't believe me? Come on down and SHOW me biaaaaatch :Bang:

Nengun reakons next Friday for my coils, so It'll be touch and go if I can beat a stocker (I'm loving 1/2 throttle).

Also, my car may not even run as it looks like we'll have WELL over our limit of cars wanting a run... and like I said I'm there every f$%^&ng week.

camma and other travlers get spots reserved of course.

Have some larger V8's comming for fun :rofl:

Well, to be honest I don't know... but Squealy's GTR put out 260 rwkws on a cranky day.

My car will splutter its way to 190ish rwkws, although it still can't do it on the road without new coils (soon as its boosts over 12 -14 psi, it dies... Nenguns have had a hold up)

ARM85 may make 120 rwkws if he is lucky... he he he

Ummm... there is a GT30 equiped VL turbo I'd expect would make some power. Plus a lot of the usual V8's and stuff (out here everyone loves their commonwores).. That said last night I had a real struggle getting past a falcon (EB-ED 1993ish)... it had some balls :D

Hopeing that Stolly will bring his R33 GTR, apparently is got some big nuts.

Top day Anthony, thanks for organising it. I rattled off 184rwkw from the 4 cylinder but with a few boost problem sorted I should be able to squeeze a little more out of it. It was good to meet a couple of the SAU lads. See you at the next one!

What were some of the other results that I missed?

Thanks for making the trip Camma!

The standout was the Maroon VL Turbo with the huge GT30 hi mount. It had to be re straped three times :burnout: and made 1333.8 NM of tourque... and 270kws :P

Ummm, other than that there were some standout shi%^ers, including the R33 running nos hacking its way to 120kws, the Yellow NAT VL which claimed 200rwkw prior to the day, and rolled 141.

Had a stocker VX S pac comp at the end, with 114 and 122 kws.

Fun day though, next one will be a lot bigger - with promo girls and stuff. Will keep you all posted on that one.

No no no gents

120rwkws - turbo with nos shot. Its sounded like a sick dog though, claimed there was more in it and HP didn't know how to use a dyno.

It sounded like it was missing, backfiring and running rich and lean all at the same time.

Yesterday another Skyline who wouldn't run on the day came in (N/A), young guy.

Ran 113rwkws - which is pretty good I thought, nice and smooth too.. Told him he should've entered, really neat car too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...