Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. Could anyone out ther help me with more information about my HR30 skyline? I know that it has the L20ET slug for an engine but that will be making way for an RB20 from an R32. What I would like to know is what kind of diff I have possible suspension upgrades and any thing else that you might think would be usefull info. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/
Share on other sites

Not sure of the diff - I think it's an R200, and I think it will be an open spinner (ie non-LSD).

As for suspension, fit some decent replacement shock cartridges (eg KYB make some) and some decent springs (Lovells, Kings make lowered sets). Fit urethane bushes. Maybe upgraded anti-roll bars.

I'm currently working on a conversion to fit Z31 (4-stud) rotors to the fronts. Otherwise, the brakes are OK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1346800
Share on other sites

I gained large amounts of torque when just fitting a GT4 celica intercooler as a front mount. no so much in the power area. unsure tho....

A good advantage with the l20et is the fact with the Injection system you can upgrade the injectors to rb20det ones which are 270cc or fj20det ones, anything low resistant, and use the factory ecu. 100cc Upgrade over the factory 180cc. :D.. The key is in tunning the AFM tension which will determin the A/F mixtures.

I highly Insist on installing a larger fuel pump. thanks to them being external its a easy job.

PopoffValve.jpg

The over boost safety vavle is the welded up unit you see in the pic.

Another good mod is to remove the restrictiver intake piping going from the afm to the turbo, and mount the afm directly to the Turbo intake. This improves the throttle responce and gains in torque. Grabing the 3" mounting plate of a afm of any Zed car will let you atach a pod filter.

Remove all Emission controll systems off the l20et they rob power. Alot of power.

Installing a 60mm Throttle body is a must, I am about to do this also. The only downside is needed to removed the cold start system to weld up the large section that has be be grinded back to improve the intake flow into the plenuim. Its not biggie the motor runs fine without it.

If you wish not to do this then bypass the throttle body heater system by removing the two hoses passing thru it and joining them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1362316
Share on other sites

stagefumer11, what turbo are you using? standard ECU?

and what emission control dohickeys should be removed/disconnected - I see one thing blanked off in your pic, what else?

I've never modified an EFI turbo thing before, and only know about 1/2 of what I'm looking at! :lol I've always had old L series fours with carbs and dissy's...

I'm in a mad rush to try and get my HR30 ready for a tarmac rally on June 30, and need to have some sort of bhp! I've attached a pic of how it currently looks, so you can see I have a lot of work to do... finish painting, put it all back together, get it running again!, tyres, rego, plus a few mods - exhaust, intercooler, boost, and a few of your cheap tricks - thanks for the info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1364979
Share on other sites

actually, mine runs perfuctly fine with a full venting bov. you will find with the old school ecu's and the "vein" afms it isnt much pf a problem.

Yeah im in the same boat, running an atmo BOV with standard ecu/afm etc no drama's so far :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1365009
Share on other sites

Im still running the factory turbo....... and ecu. They are not to limited in factory form. I do recomend getting a r33 25t turbo as a larger upgrade. My pics are a bit on the old side. and i dont have any new updated ones. so i can only explain what needs to be done.

DCP_4019.jpg

Pretty much from this pic you can see what needs to be removed, i have no idle contorll system nor emission regulations. :rofl:. Discontect the rear vavle onte back of the intake manifold. this is the EGR valve (exhaust gass Recirculation) Which opens up on crusing. its lowers the emission outputs. but robs throttle responce.

YOu do not need a carbon canister. :P remove that also.

Bypass the throttle body heater. i have no done that yet but need to do so.

Set your timing to 17btc.

You can see my intake as it is in that picture. but now it has changed. So the best thing to do is to mount it on the front of the turbo. The rubbber Sleve that is currently on the turbo intake will let you do this. Doing all of this removes the "Small" restrictive intake piping.

Of you are requiring good thorttle responce install a N/A AFM. they have less tension preloaded onto the AFM arm. You do have to swap over the turbo air temp sensor. I just tryed this last night but lost alot of top end. I didnt feel the power untill 12psi. Compared to my Turbo AFM. The turbo afm's are more windings on the Tension Spring for the gate. Which i presume gives a more consistint readings. compared to a quick acting na one. adjusting the tension can change your a/f mixtures depending on what you require.

Another mod is to install the AFM onto the throttle body. These "vein" style afm's can be used as a blow thru setup. They are stongly buit and can hold more boost than the Mazda style blow thrus. The idea is to get the Afm Close as possible to the throttle body which improves the throttle responce and helps low speed crusing.

Do the fuelupmp. The factory ones are very lacking. Im using a late model bosh unit out of a 1999 v8 merc, not sure what model. they flow Huge amounts of fuel.

Turbos are good for 18-22psi. Depends on Condition. They are a full steel wheel'd Garret t3' the only downside. they are small

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1365845
Share on other sites

No worrie. I just wish i had a second car to drive around then id be doing the same thing as you with the rebuild,l Always check underthe front gards mine has been rusting pretty badly around those area's repaired the drives side which also required another gard. :rofl:

Are you painting it yourself?. if so how are you prepping it ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1365927
Share on other sites

No worrie. I just wish i had a second car to drive around then id be doing the same thing as you with the rebuild,l Always check underthe front gards mine has been rusting pretty badly around those area's repaired the drives side which also required another gard. :)  

Are you painting it yourself?. if so how are you prepping it ?

yep, painting it under the house. I had the rust cut out and welded up, had some rust in front gaurds, sills, under the boot rubber (which required a cut from a local R30 sedan and some minor reshaping), and in the spare wheel well.

its just a quick respray though - nothing too fancy. Just fixed up the areas that needed attention, then a light coat of primer over the whole car so I could use acrylic top coats. In the above pic, I've already painted the colour on and had to give it a light sand because I had some problems with the gun and it went on a bit dry. Clear is yet to go on - I wanted to do that today, but ran out of time... so I guess it will have to wait till next weekend. Hopefully it will be registered in 2 or 3 weeks, then I can start ripping off some of those pesky pollution gadgets!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1366344
Share on other sites

Hmm... almost happy that Sheridan ended up selling it to you for less than I offered her, I suck at bodywork.

The Simmons look good though

yeah, its alot of work even doing a 'quick' respray, and it was in a pretty neglected condition. I didn't mention that the paint on the bonnet, bootlid and roof were all cracked/crazed - so that was a bit more involved than a coat of primer. Here's a pic of when I first drove it home - after I washed it with degreaser!

the wheels are actually Rays Engineering - 16*8" on the back, 7" on the front. I swapped these 15" Simmons for them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73326-help-please/#findComment-1367342
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...