Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

These controllers may be cheaper than the one sold at performance shops but are made properly adn indicdually unlike mass produced items mad cheap and sold at high prices.  

Simark

Mark,

Just to clarify the construction of the valve, is it correct that the adjuster only screws in a total of 4 full turns before bottoming out ?

fitted mine 2 days ago, works well, my previous bleed valve for some reason used to let the boost creep up 1psi as the revs got higher, so at lower revs it was 1psi lower than i wanted.

with the new controller it holds exactly 10psi the whole time, much better :(

Angry...

What turbo are you running?

I've found the stock RB20DET turbo has issues holding more than 12.5-13psi.

A nice free flowing 3.5" does help quite a bit.

The Rb20DET turbo on the rb30det has issues holding more than 9psi.

So its definitely a turbo issue.

standard Rb20 redtop turbo ....making this horrible squeeling sound since i put the controller on ..i think its the bleeder hole... but **** it spool earlier now and comes in with a bit of a wack compared to the unboosted 10psi it was running for the last 12months.

i'm running around 12 psi ..gets fuel cut when its cold ..so i think a little more tweakin might be needed.

in 2nd it holds around 12 psi to about 5.. and drops to 10 right at the peak of 6500-7000. with a FMIC 3inch dump pipe back system with hiflow modified CAT. :Pimp2: .... currently building my split 3inch dump pipe ..hopefully that frees it up a little more ..as it kinda pops thru the exhaust under hard boost in 1st and 2nd..but i tihnk thats plug gap

.. but i'm looking to get my VG30 turbo fitted soon as well .... as long as i dont kill this 20 in the mean time..

Hey guys, Got mine in the mail today...

Looking at installing it but im totally useless. I have attached a pic from my FC rx-7 service manual. On the left there is the rx7 turbo setup and on the bottom right is the pic of the rx7 turbo. What i dont get is according to the left pic... on the right pic, isnt there spose to be a boost solenoid valve inbetween the hose from the wastegate actuator to the compressor cover that im spose to bypass ? Any ideas how i should connect this controller?

All input is appreciated

Cheers

This manual boost controller are good but if you are running serious power you cant go past a HKS EVC which uses a solenoid and stepper motor to control boost.

How is that relevant when people here are talking about a $22 boost controller, running slightly more than std boost :confused:

The AVCR's single solanoid works perfectly fine.

The Blitz SBC-iD doesn't have bells and whistles. :hippy:

AVCR I suppose. :rofl:

The Blitz EBC only has 4 channels, auto and manual mode with a scamble, multi pressure readouts i.e PSI etc.

Thats not bells and whistles.

What sets the Blitz and AVCR apart from the HKS is the auto modes.

For a smallish turbo setup the auto mode nets you an extra 10-20rwkw.

A larger turbo that has no problems supplying the required air at high rpm's doesn't drop boost, in turn the std fairly basic fixed duty cycle setup of the HKS works fine.

Hi guys im from the Uk and own a r33 gts t, ive been asking questions on other forums in the uk about this device, and have been advised on the following.....

is not advisable to allow the car to run the higher level of boost early in the rev range due to the ignition advance in the lower rpm range, removing the 2 stage boost control will allow the boost to run at .7bar from 2500 rpm and the ignition map will be too agressive to allow the engine to run without detonation.

Im not wishing to name names here but would just like to know what your opinion on this comment is.

Im not a mechanical wizard, and really just want to know the 2 sides of a coin so to speak.

Im just intriqued:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...