Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!


Recommended Posts

Can't keep the stock solenoid? Is this because its suppose to be running in series with the wastegate? How come bleedvalves can still use the stock solenoid though? Is it becuase they are running parallel?

So confusing lol. Thanks again haha.

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeh,i got the other bleed valve off u CEFF1E,

i cant really see a difference in the two.

yeh ur 1 worked, i been runnin 14psi on my std turbo for over 1 week now:)

n i didnt connect anything back to the bov.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

I've had this before. Only assuming, but - Sounds like the bleed valve is on the same pressure line as the BOV. The bleed valve will backflow and let presure in instead of bleeding when the throttle shuts and that means that there isn't a vacuum behind the BOV, so it wont open. Then the turbo surges.

Thats why I'm getting one of these...

My idle was higher, due to air backflowing through a bleed valve. Then I noticed that the BOV would not blow off when I increased boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm having a few issues with boost control also and for ~$30 I'm willing to give this a go even if it doesnt work.

I noticed someone mention they received a blue one as opposed to the red ones pictured. What other colours are avilable? If possible I would prefer a black one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

i had a dog and his name was BINGO!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guys

Thanks a heap for your interest in the turbotech boost controller.

I have now received orders for 30 and have already sent out 19 of them.

As all good things come to an end, the $28 price is unstainable with the cost and time involved.

I will of course continue to look after skyliners with a revised cost of $35 express delivered. Which is far less than I charge on ebay.

Pretty cheap for a F%^$ing great boost controller!!

Thanks gain

Mark

p.s keep those pics scoming its a blast to see them :headspin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

please excuse me but I'm a little lost... I have a 33 gtst and have looked at my setup (stock solenoid) but don't fully understand where to put this.

Can someone post a pick of an R33 install... am I fitting it in place of the solenoid? ie, just remove the hoses from the solenoid and put them on the valve, if I remove the solenoid from the picture altogether, I'm left with three hoses. Which two do I use?

Sorry if someone has already made it clear, my eyes must be blurry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Received my boost controller today and have installed it. Um what can i say but OMFG are you serious. Got mine for $28 but now gone up to $35. Guys this is penuts. This is the best controller iv'e come across. I previously had a GFB bleed (rubbish) value and this unit simply replaces it in the same position as previously stated. I now have it set at 12psi and upon testing it, it did NOT spike at all and did NOT drop of at the top end where the GFB valve would spike and go from 15psi and drop of to 10psi. What a bargin for such a good product. Congratulations Mark and thankyou.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get that patent happeneing.  

 

Edit: Bummer, looks like you can't get patents if you have already sold the product. :P

 

http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1097642.htm

m sure you could work something out, maybe "CHANGE" wink, wink, nudge, nudge the design then patent that one instead??? :headspin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to add myself to the list of satisfied customers. I bought this valve about three weeks ago after reading the first post. This is definately the best $32.50 i have spent on my car, instant boost and no spiking!!!! :headspin:

I spent my weekend finetuning the boost and now i can fang with peace of mind

:wassup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep i agree mark. you should patent these. if this is just one forum for one model of car and you have sold like 30 of them to us. Imagne if you distributed this on every car forum around the world.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hehe guys the ball and spring design isn't something new, it's been around for a while. :rofl:

Still a great controller thought, mine is going fantastic, no spiking, constant boost that builds fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Butters I can't tell you why but the bigger HKS step 2 cams improved low and mid end immensely. Turbos started spooling about 1k RPM less than before and the idle/vacuum was rock solid, it was an absolute thrill to drive, 3rd gear pulls hit 180kmh where previously only managed 160. Conversely, the milder poncoms in there now have a funky idle making it harder to get off the line, drives poorly in lower revs, laggy and makes less power/torque throughout. Feels better after I swapped the EBC but unless I put it on the Dyno again, I can't say how much better.
    • Hi Sydney kid   do you still selling spring and blistein shocks for Nissan 260rs? Air any suspension upgrades? Please advice     yudy
    • Cams are not needed at this power level, they will create lag. The cam gears are a good idea though.
    • @Murray_Calavera yeah, I guessed as much, cooler temps, more boost, less knock, more timing, hello power. Unfortunately not quite within reach ATM, could upgrade my whole fuel system to support but still wouldn't have E85 to run it 😂  Anyway, I changed cams again, 260/260 poncam B and everything else the same except an EBC upgrade. Now I must say I was quite disappointed with the result as it was like running stock cams (didn't try to dial them in as they're supposed to be optimum already) but after awhile I suspected my new EBC was underperforming not to mention difficult to use. I recently swapped back my old EBC and it drives much better now, boost comes on sooner, more stable, no spikes etc, feels all quicker and faster than with stock cams. Planning to fiddle with the cam gears and see what happens but maybe skip the Dyno as I intend to revert to the HKS cams cos they really made the car come alive; low and mid end was unbelievable and it just wanted to rev to the moon, finally knew what people were raving about, RB26 really loves revs. Anyway, Dyno 03 is quite disappointing, in Dyno 02 although peak power was less and trailed off at the top, the low and mid end improvement more than made up for it.
    • @Darrel It's so tempting to say e85 is borderline magic. It cools the intake charge, so if you're flirting with the edge of the turbos compressor map it helps dramatically cool down the hot air the turbos are pumping. It is very resistant to detonation so you can crank the timing, I don't really want to say you won't be knock limited anymore.... but you probably wont be knock limited anymore lol. I wouldn't be surprised if you made 20% more power swapping to e85 (provided you have the fuel system to support them, bigger injectors maybe bigger pump etc). 
×
×
  • Create New...