Dee 33

Not separating at this stage as I've had reasonable interest so far and just want to get rid of the whole thing. Location is Samford, Brisbane as stated in the original post. Unfortunatly it only made 12kw at the roof due to drivetrain losses... What happened was a mate driving with me as the passenger and a mate in the back. Came around and corner a little fast (doing about 40km/h) and the back slid out a little which put us at a 45deg angle subsequently rocketing us into a traffic island when the rears grabbed back on. Hitting the island at such as angle managed to flip the damn thing. Unlucky that it rolled the car considering the low speed but very lucky that no-one was hurt.

Condition of the engine has been updated. A buyer brought a coil around the test in place of the stuffed one and the car idled perfectly.

For now, I'm not going to separate as I'd rather sell it as a whole package and be rid of it. Also, if I start to separate bits off then it could turn off potential buyers who'd be able to use the whole package. I also don't have the time or motivation to pull the whole car apart and get rid of everything individually, despite the fact I'd probably make more money. Cheers.

SOLD

Thanks guys. I'm guessing it's the dead coil and my plugs which were covered in oil which had made it's way into the cylinders (car upside down). I'll replace the coil and the plugs and hopefully she runs smooth. If so, she's ready to be sold

Hey guys. Is it possible that my Wolf3dv4 could have reset itself being without power for 2 months? I have just managed to get my engine running again which was not working for a while but it's running very rough and won't accelerate. I know for sure that at least one of the coils is busted but I didn't think that a missing coil would have such a drastic effect. Cheers.

Thanks for the help fellas. However, I can't see how to rotate the engine by hand. Am I just meant to force one of the many round cogs on the front of the engine? There are several there and I can't see an easy way to spin one of them. As for checking for screwed bearings, good idea. The engine was running for about a minute or so upside before it conked out, I'm hoping due to running out of petrol with an upside down tank and not because it rooted itself. Cheers.

Hey guys. A while back my car flipped and landed on it's roof. I couldn't get it started so thought it must have seized up but a mechanic told me that if the car was left upside for a while that there's a chance the cylinders could have filled with oil causing hydraulic lock preventing the engine from being able to turn over. I managed to get down to the spark plugs this morning and pulled them out and lo and behold, the plugs are covered in oil so it looks like the mechanic was right and my engine isn't seized up which is a good thing. At this point, I'm kinda stuck as to where to go from here. Would the spark plugs be ok if I just washed them with some degreaser? They're the NGK Iridium ones and they're pretty new and appear to be in good condition. Also, how the hell am I meant to get the oil out of the cylinders? Can I try cranking the engine over and the oil will come out the spark plugs and I clean it from there? Should I manually rotate the engine (push the car while in gear) rather than cranking it to be safe? Will a little oil be ok and burn off as long as I get rid of the bulk? Any help would be great. I really want to get it running so I can sell the wreck as a working item. Cheers, Drew.

Eddzy is a friend of mine and he posted it there on his own accord, doing me a favor. I have taken my ads down here and on Boostcruising because I don't know the condition of the engine at the moment as I can't get it started due to what a mechanic has told me is likely to be hydraulic lock, meaning the cylinders might have oil in them due to the car being upside for probably an hour at the crash scene. An engine won't kick over with enough oil in the cylinders because it can't compress it. I will put the ad back up when I know if it runs or not and the price I put will be based on whether or not the engine is running. For reference, I am KylerKF on Boostcruising. I've been an active member there for years (although not in the last few months as I don't work in an office anymore) and quite a few members from there know both me and the car in person.

It's a manual. Stupid me forgot to include that. It also has a single plate ceramic clutch included in the mods under two years old. This clutch cost me $1000 and bites very hard. Hard to get used to using though but I've mastered it. The front bar was purchased off ebay for $100 with a crack in it. There are no bulbs behind the indicators and I believe it's a copy because the hole in the front where the intercooler sits, doesn't line up evenly with the headlight

Item on hold until I figure whether it can be started or not. For those who have pm'd or called me, or left note of interest in this thread, I'll get back to you when I know the condition of the engine which will hopefully be this weekend if I discover it myself, or next week when I get it to a mechanic. Drew.

Mine does the same thing and sometimes makes a very nasty shudder. Only this winter though so I have no idea what it is. If I fix it, I'll let you know what the problem was but I'm guessing it's something to do with the battery or starter motor.

You sure about that? I'd always guessed they would have been around 40-50k, along the price lines of WRX's and S15's. 70k seems very high...

Around 400km is the general consensus. There have been many many threads about this in the past and 400 seems to be the average.

My story is good. The same thing happened to me. Nailed it at the lights and then the throttle jammed open somehow, car rocketed down the street, evetually switched it off and rolled to a stop. Upon inspection, the f**king trumpet from my GFB Bov had unscrewed, and jumped across the engine bay coming to rest under the throttle lever leaving it wedged fully open I made sure I screwed it on extra tight afterwards. Seriously though, what are the chances of that?

Sourcing the major parts yourself with save you quite a bit but you really have to account for things like lines for the turbo and adapters etc. which you can see came into play in my above quote. I could have saved $500 if I sourced the ECU myself (PowerFC) and another $700ish if I used a hybrid intercooler kit instead of the Garrett but the Garret kit is superb. Polished pipes with silicon joiners as well as no cutting of the front required to the vehicle. The intercooler fits perfectly behind the front bumper support so no cutting required here at all. Now all I need to do is convince myself that I should spend $3k to get cams and injectors done (puchase, install, retune). This should let me run close to 20psi boost and get me well over 250rwkw with the extra torque from the cams as well. Mmmm... spend money on car or save for house... Life sucks. I need more money.

I say this in pretty much every R33 Gts-t upgrade thread because I've gone through it all myself. Either way, I found my exact price list so I can give everyone an idea of what it costs to upgrade your R33. These prices are drive in and drive away prices from WASP on the Gold Coast with tuning at PITS (expensive, but arguably the best). This was over a year ago. Garret 300x600 fmic kit $1,600 + $330 install Wolf3Dv4 $1,550 + $198 install ITS 460 T04e Custom $2,000 + $396 install Apexi Power Filter $220 Bleed Valve $70 Fuel Pump $220 GFB Skyline Steath FX BOV $350 Malpassi Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Reg $170 Platinum Spark Plugs $132 Oil (Mobil 1 Synth S 10w40) $42 Ryco Oil Filter $16 Front Brake Pads $85 Machine Front Rotors $55 Various Clamps and Fittings $15 Spacer Plate for turbo $50 Silicon Down pipes from Pod Filter to Turbo $250 Oil line for turbo $165 Exhaust Dumpipe, Front Pipe, 3in High Flow Cat $715 Service $66 Dyno Tune $847 Total $9,542 So if you don't want to source parts yourself or do any of the work, this is what you can look at paying. The work done was abobroad minded personely perfect and every mechanic who's looked at the car since has commented on how well everything is set up. Also, this is a higher price than average for a tune but Matt Spry's work is second to none which can be seen in the driveability of the car. It's literally perfect. This gave me around 240rwkw which was limited by 16psi of boost due to the stock injectors. Also, after a few hours of driving the clutch was completely rooted so I had to add another $1300 to have this done as well but now it's great. So for average joe, you'll need about $10k to do a turbo upgrade.

Heh that's what I was thinking

If you don't want to get a silencer, go to an exhaust shop and spend a little on a quiet muffler. Exhaust size and even power has little to do with the noise. It's all in the muffler. There's a reason my Suzuki Sierra is louder than my Skyline and exhaust size and power have nothing to do with it. It's all in the muffler

Whack a bleed valve on there and set it to bleed a little air. Can't say how much spike you'll get but if you want a very quick fix that you can do yourself, I can't see why it wouldn't work.

Not ALL Skylines have been thrashed. I have 240rwkw and use mine as a daily driver. I hit full boost maybe once on the way to and from work. I treat my car with more respect than it really needs and only give it a good thrashing (5 minutes or so of hard acceleration and cornering) once every 2 months or so. Sure, it's a waste of the power but it's having it there when I need/want it which makes me happy. Mine isn't for sale though but there would be some very good examples of modded Skylines out there amongst the bad. There are a minority who treat their cars with a little too much tlc. For $25k, your best bet it to buy a decent condition S2 R33 and do exhaust, cooler and boost as well as throwing a high flow panel filter in the stock box. You have pretty much no chance of getting 250rwkw for $25k unless you buy the car for $15k and mod it up, or buy an already modified one. Modifying costs and wastes money. You save craploads buying someone elses work. But you lose the satisfaction of getting the work done yourself and seeing the progression. You also know exactly what was done and how if effects the car. But what's this worth to you?

In general terms, the bigger the HP rating of the turbo, the bigger the lag. For example. My 460hp turbo with stock cams hits full boost (16psi limited by stock injectors) in most gears (not 1st) at 3500rpm. Peak power is 242rwkw. For street use, I wouldn't want to go any laggier than this. Ultimate street response and power is usually found with the HKS GT-RS. I think it's rated ar around 420hp. Your 700hp monster will be horrible on the street and useless without injectors, cams, fuel pump, ecu, internals, intercooler blah blah blah. Mate. Get a smaller one for sure. See if they'll let you trade it down. Since you don't have the money yet and don't seem like you want a drag car, get something rated at 500hp or less.

We're on tank water on a property just outside of Brisbane. We're adjacent to a creek so when the tank gets empty, we can just fill it back up. Sure, the creek will run out eventually as it's stopped flowing but at the moment, water in our house is a non issue. Long showers, regular car washes (when I'm not lazy). It's pretty good for us. Gonna make things interesting if we all run out of water though. Time to wash your car AT THE BEACH

Hehe... getting close.

It's true. Discrimination at it's finest. Nothing we can do about it though.