Dee 33

240rwkw, conservative driving with occasional "foot to the floor", 400km. Parts are easy to get. Things such as air/fuel/oil filters are all standard items, plugs standard, brake pads standard, there really isn't that much you can't source locally unless you have a major accident and need specific parts to yoru model of car.

It's all lies. Like any performance vehicle, they do require more regular maintenance but left in stock form, they'll cost no more to maintain than any other vehicle. It's when you start modifying that the costs can get higher but this will happen with any car. Parts are no problem either. The only extra "parts" a turbo vehicle really has is a turbo, intercooler, blow off valve and maybe some form of boost solenoid. Look after your turbo car with regular services and oil changes and it will look after you

Clips it is. Although in my S1, they're a bitch to unclip and a couple have even broken due to the plastic getting frail and old.

I always thought BHP was a power at the engine type measurement such that his 300bhp would = 220kw = 160ish rwkw. Hardly unbelievable... I'm guessing the guy who sold his car is referring to a measurement of power at the engine, not the wheels.

Try www.bodykits.com.au. Several sites there.

Can you give us some info about what mods you had on the car to make the 298rwkw, how long this lasted, and how you drove it throughout this period? I'm looking to push my internals to their limit without having to upgrade. Hoping for 260-270rwkw. I baby my car though so I'm thinking it should be able to last. Very interested to know what mods you had though.

Pretty sure back pressure is only an issue in n/a cars. ... and old people...

You said RB25 so I'll assume you have an R33. Ground the solenoid and you'll get the instant 10psi as mentioned above. Also, when I picked my car up after a ton of work to it they left the bleed valve closed. What this resulted in was a gradual increase in boost as the revs raised until it stopped at about 14psi. Opening the bleed valve up I was able to attain a much faster boost increase up to 15psi so as far as my personal experience goes, if after the solenoid mod your boost still rises slowly, try a bleed valve. They're cheap as chips anyway and you'll want one eventually.

My mate drove an auto excel for a few years then went straight into an S15 as his first manual. Point being, if you can competantly drive an auto already then you'll have no problem whatsoever switching over to a manual car. The reason manuals can be difficult at the beginning is because you're having to concentrate on changing gears as well as indicating and being intimidated by everyone else around you. Once you've mastered driving, switching to a manual is piss easy. Besides, a stock R32 will be slow anyway. I'd save straight away and wait out till you have the 12k or so for a stock R32.

No probs in Brissie here. Never even was one as far as I know. I haven't noticed anything when using Optimax or even Caltex's Vortex Gold. Meh...

Edit: Double post. For shame

Jeez, I don't know about "might as well go back to stock" but I guess it depends on if your system is a catback (hardly any performance difference) or a dump/front/hi-flow cat/catback system in which case putting a quieter muffler on is in no way like returning it to stock. My mate just got a full exhaust fitted on his S15 with a twin tip oval muffler. It's quiet, but with 12psi boost and an Apexi Pod he pulled 173rwkw so even though quiet, the exhaust made a huge difference regardless of the muffler on the end of it.

Edit: Didn't think it would be so simple. O'Brien can do the whole thing. No longer need help here. Thanks

Meh, stock Gts-t's are slow. 32, 33 or 34. Nothing special. Coming from a Ford Laser, even I wasn't overly impressed by the power of my R33 Gts-t when I picked it up. Sure, it was fun and all that but it didn't feel like it had much at all on the BA's I drive at work. But like any guy who wants power, I just did some mods. Problem solved

I run the Wolf3Dv4 and tuned by P.I.T.S on the Gold Coast the car runs flawlessly. It uses the MAP sensor as well. So yeah, no complaints whatsoever from me and my Wolf...

Yeah but it's a non turbo 2JZ so keep that in mind. I think they're around the 160kw mark. Personally, I'd go the Skyline due to it being a hell of a lot newer. Besides, $21k is heaps for that Soarer. On second looks... is that a fmic on it? Has it had a turbo conversion? If so, manual 2jz Soarer all the way!

Stock S14's have the worse ass ever... However, put a rear bar on it and you have a winner.

Which is why you'll get different pronounciations amongst english people because they're not english words. Sort of like castle. Car-sl or cass-l. Not really a right way, just a different way.

Take it to a mechanic to fix before you run out of fuel. Sounds like a cable or lever has busted or even just unhooked itself.

Just advertise it as it is. Stock with full exhaust and air filter. Most people would pay more for this than pure 100% stock anyway as these are the first things they're going to want to do to the car and they don't really compromise reliability.

Mine did/does the same (although not for a few months now) but yeh, it would change fine but occasionally when having a thrash it would crunch like a mofo into 4th. Strangely enough as I mentioned, it doesn't really happen anymore but next service I'm keen to get some of that Redline in there.

My mate made a claim on his car with JCI. It was several thousand in damage but they didn't give a crap that he had an in cabin electronic boost controller... They paid up fine

Yep. If you're short on cash then a fuel pressure regulator will be enough to get you to 240rwkw but with enough money you might as well save the hassle and just go straight for the injectors. Aftermarker injectors will be far more than enough for 240rwkw which you should be able to get with this setup

Damn that is pimp... I love it

To hit 200rwkw you'll pretty much need fmic, zorst, boost and a computer (most common PowerFC). You'll be hard pressed hitting this without some kind of aftermarket fuel management.