Dee 33

I've got a quiet exhaust on mine. Close to stock sounding. With a fully exposed (no cai yet, my bad) pod filter and an aftermarket 460hp T04e it hisses insanely loud when you're in the cabin. Love it

The costs of R32 GTR's are high but not in the purchase price, it's in the maintenance. If you're going to be able to afford an R32 GTR you need to make sure you have a stable income that will leave you with enough cash to spend when shit happens. Sure, you might be lucky and have no problems at all but the thing about this car is to be prepared or risk having a car you can't drive because you have no cash for new turbos/gearbox/other shit.

I was in the same predicament mate. I'm a die-hard supra fan, love Toyotas, love Supras, but I only had 20k to play with as well. I bought an R33 Gts-t and definately haven't looked back. My mate has an n/a Supra and while they are fast for what they are, the Gts-t is faster and feels a hell of a lot more powerful too. The Supra is a far more refined ride, but when it comes to performance the RB25DET wins hands down. Moreso if you spend 3k and add zorst, cooler and boost. Now that I've spent 10k on it I realise that if I had have waited and bought nothing, I would have enough for a TT now... but that's beside the point. Turboing the n/a is not a viable option. Either get the Gts-t or stick with a shitter till you have enough for the TT. This could be a good idea. Oh, an R33 Gts-t with 10k spent on it will shit on a stock RZ. But spend some money on the RZ and it's bye bye Skyline.

Heh me and my mate are so ashamed. When he was in year 12 his parents gave him 7k for a new car so he bought a 95 4 door excel (cause it was auto and fuel efficient blah blah) and then he spent 1.5k on some ROH rims, lowered it, zorst, power chip (lol rofl hahah) and a 3k stereo setup. So yeah, err... we thought it was da bomb. I wonder what everyone else thought while we cruised Mooloolaba esplanade with the doof doof cranking.

Buy some mesh from supercheap. Attach it. If you like it, leave it. If you don't, take it off. It only costs $20-$30 I think. I put some on my car and with the current front bar (not that one <-----------) I think it looks slightly better with the mesh. On a side note. So pissed I didn't get a photo but I looked at my mesh at the train station on Tuesday and saw a medium sized FROG splayed across the mesh! It was hard and crusty by this time but I thought that was kinda cool. So yeah, mesh stops frogs getting mashed into your cooler.

No you won't. If it's the pod filter sounds that comes out when you release the throttle, that's the air venting from the stock blow of valve of which your n/a car won't have. However, putting a pod filter on your n/a car should give you a nice sucking noise when you accelerate as the air whooshes through. The stock skyline airboxes are muffled, thus the reason you hear no sound from them. If you want to hear a cool noise, take the lid off your airbox and do a lap around the block. Of course, leave the filter there but without the lid you should be able to hear the sucking noise. A pod filter will sound similar to this but much better. Yeeha!

Youch. Smooth tune but damn that power comes on late. By the looks of the graph that turbo has plenty more in it as it's still racing upwards at 9krpm. More boost will help move that curve to the left a little. I'd say it's got plenty more left in it but I can't comment through experience as I haven't used that turbo myself.

Ahh, thought it was a Gts-t there for a moment considering the 160kw. That sounds damn low for a stock GTR.

How to turn a perfect 90 degree corner: - Slow down from 100km/h to about 30km/h by the time you reach the corner. -Turm the steering wheel in the selected direction (left or right) as you push the clutch all the way in. - Rev the engine up to 5000rpm as you enter the corner and then dump the clutch. - As the ass slides outwards and you car overcorners, spin the wheel back in the opposite direction and slowly let of the revs letting the wheels regain traction while maintaining the car in a forwards direction. - Check for cops. - Stick your hand out the window and give a thumbs up to the school girls you almost cleaned up. - Continue accelerating back up to 100km/h as you bask in glory.

This thread has turned pretty lame. Now it seems that guys who chase high dyno figures are doing it impress others? What about people like me? I've spent every bit of money on my car on power mods. From the outside, the car looks exactly the same as the day I bought it. Stock everything except front bar and skirts. Going around corners the car feels the same as well. The previous owner had dropped it an inch but that's it. The handling is nothing special. But when I put my foot down and feel up to 240rwkw ripping at the ground, that's what makes me smile and appreciate my car. Some (note: some, not all) of you guys think you're better because you spend money on handling and brakes. You assume people who built straight line monsters are doing it to impress others but the fact is, people do to their cars what will bring them the most enjoyment. Some people want a car that looks hot. Some people want a car that handles on rails. Some people want to be able to get slammed back in their seat at the press of the pedal. Who the **** cares?

If you're going to be changing the boost at all, I'd highly recommend getting an aftermarket boost gauge. As far as gauges go, that's the only one you really need. Supra fan gone Skyline ey. Same here. Couldn't afford the TT, didn't want the N/A so I grabbed the next best thing

Oh god... While being damn tidy, that engine bay is just wrong...

You're keeping it for a year and doing an engine conversion? The GTS4 will be slower than a standard WRX (non-sti). Don't expect it to go fast at all unless you are prepared to spend a few thou. Nothing against the cars, they're great. But the RB20 is weak enough already. The extra weight just makes it worse. Saying that though, you will be able to drill it's gearbox a lot harder than a WRX's (non-sti).

Hey guys. I've been looking at second hand coilovers on eBay. I'm come across a few now that have said "This suspension was designed for an R32 but will fit an R33" or vice versa. What I want to know is, in people's experiences are theses items actually interchangable? One eBay'er who I asked the question to said that the only difference is that R33's suspension is designed to be a little harder due to the extra weight of the car but due to the suspension packages being pretty hard anyway, it should fit on my R33 quite well. I'm just a little confused. Any insight it much appreciated as I'm really keen to get something decent handling for my car. 240rwkw is all fun and everything, but when you can't corner it kinda sucks.

R32 GTS4 is a turbo. But the Gts-t is always going to be a faster car until you start having traction issues which won't happen with your R32 until you start spending a moderate amount of money on it. If you're planning on some heavy mods down the track, nothing wrong with the GTS4 but is you're only thinking of doing boost/cooler/zorst/intake then the Gts-t will be a far better car hands down. Remember, not only will your GTS4 be heavier but it will also lose more power through the drivetrain so you end up having a heavier car which puts out less power.

Lol. Chopped to the max.

Holy crap. So many votes for the black. THE SILVER ONE HAS 100KW MORE. Why is this even a comparisson? Spend 10k make the silver one look like the black one.

I'm happily using a bleed valve to run 16psi with an aftermarket turbo + all support mods. I'd rather put the $500-800 + tune towards something else. Until I have spare money, an EBC is not a priority. Cams, injectors and suspension/handling mods are preference

Hey guys. Just under a year ago I spent a nice dose of cash on my stock R33 Gts-t. Enough to net me a wonderful 240rwkw. Enough to light the tires in second when boost came on. A very healthy dose of power. Now as I've had it in this state for almost a year, I've gotten used to the power. This is expected. But you know how sometimes you say to yourself "It doesn't feel as fast as it used to..." and you wonder if it in fact is as fast as it used to be. I had my car in at Mercury getting a service/wheel bearing done and I asked them to throw it on the dyno. Well I get back in to my car and see the dyno sheet waiting for me when I pick it up. Alas. My fears are true. My baby only pulled 200.6rwkw. I know something is wrong because I have enough mods that I should be killing that figure. 460hp T04e Wolf3dv4 Fuel pump FMIC Malpassi 16psi Full zorst Taking a look at the power curve, it's perfect. It's one of the smoothest curves I've even seen and the car still runs flawlessly. No misfires, no choking at low revs, nothing... except for the fact that I've lost a ton of power somewhere on the way. I can guarantee it's not a difference in dynos either because my mate pulled 173rwkw in his S15 with just cooler, zorst and boost on the same dyno which is hell high for those mods. So my question is, what could it be? The guys as Mercury noticed nothing when servicing the car and it's been a gradual loss of power. I know because even with bald tires on the rear I'm no longer losing traction when I used to. The only thing I can come up with is that it might be my engine getting tired and so I'm planning on getting a compression test done. Would this probably be the issue? Worn rings or something? If so, am I actually looking at getting a full rebuild rather than just replacing some engine parts to get that compression back up? Any help is appreciated. I was about to get cams and injectors done but I'd rather find the missing 40rwkw first...

My mate also has an n/a Supra. Very nice to drive and quite powerful for what it is but like most small (non-v8) na engines, you need to get the revs up to really feel the power. This was in my experience driving it. I voted Gts-t though. RB20Det = more potential than 2JZ-GE (not counting a turbo conversion on the 2J)

I have a T04e on my R33 Gts-t. I'm making 240rwkw with standard injectors and a FPR + Wolf3d, zorst, cooler, fuel pump. I'm maxed out at 16psi (injectors) so the turbo at 240rwkw isn't yet at it's efficiency. In general I'm on full boost by 3500rpm. Never driven a ball bearing aftermarket turbo R33 so I have no idea how they compare. The spooling noise is no where near loud enough. I want loud spool! Induction noise through the pod is another story though...

That is so hot... and I don't even know why...

Another vote for a 4AGE rolla. You can grab a nice AE82 for well under $5k. Man I love those cars...

As it stands now, you will have a lag monster of a turbo with no top end power. Basically any turbo upgrade requires a fuel upgrade (ecu and fpr at least) so not only will your car run like crap, but you'll also have less power than stock because your computer won't be able to run the turbo. You're far better off waiting until you have the money for an ECU and tune ($1.5-2k) before you bolt that turbo on.

As the other "serious" posters have said. 1. 3 inch full exhaust (dump/front/hi-flow cat/catback) $1000-$2500 2. High flow panel filter or pod filter with cold air induction $100-$300 3. Boost $70-$700 (bleed valve/electronic) 4. FMIC $1000-$2000 5. PFC $1500-$2000 tuned $5k should be enough You have a good budget there.