Dee 33

Mate how does the car feel to drive? You're hitting peak power nice and early at least rather than me who doesn't get it until 6750rpm. Might be an idea to find someone local with similar mods and compare the feel of the two.

Hey mate. How much are you willing to spend? There are tons of R33's in and around Brisbane at the moment so you shouldn't have trouble finding one to buy. RACQ would shred the hell out of mine but that's what you get when you mod your car. At the end of the day, I have a damn reliable and well running car for a 1994. RACQ are throrough because they have to cover anything they miss. They are legally bound to. That's why they're so picky.

There are so many R33's on the market it's not funny. I was considering selling my S1, 240rwkw in very good condition but I'd want 20. Judging by current trends I'd probably only be able to get 18. Not worth it to me. I love my baby more than 18k

Mine came on one night. It was raining. The car was sliding all over the place on the freeway. The light is now permanently on but the car feels no different. Mercury couldn't fix it. No worries

I like this thread better before it got serious

I'll comment on my personal experience with both since I've had it. I own a (was stock) modified R33 and my brother owns a TT Soarer running 14psi and that's it. No zorst, no pod, just boost. Stock for stock, the auto Soarer is faster than the manual R33 in a straight line by far. Modified, my 240rwkw has a far superior top end to the Soarer but with stock turbos on 14psi his car really pulls hard off the line. The power of the Soarer with boost and nothing else is far superior to what you'd achieve with an RB25. 1jz > RB25 easily But... Skyline > Soarer (in my opinion) as they're lighter, nimbler, look better, far easier to come across in a manual. I chose the Skyline when I had the choice. He chose the Soarer and regrets it because it's so heavy. An R33 with a 1jz would be the absolute best of both worlds

My car managed 242rwkw with standard injectors. Needed a fuel pressure regulator though and I'm limited to 16psi through my 460hp turbo which is holding it back from it's potential (for the time being ).

I usually use Ultimate but when I can't make it to the BP I use Vortex from Caltex. At 16psi, 240rwkw on a good tune I notice absolutely no difference whatsoever between the fuels.

Hey guys. I have an 1994 S1 R33 which I purchased stock for $17.5k 2 years ago which now has aftermarket turbo, wolf3d, fmic, zorst, stock injectors running 16psi (limited by injectors) and some other minor boltons and pulls about 230-240rwkw. Body is stock with just skirts and a front bar. 130'000km. All engine mods done a year ago at a total cost of $10k. Work performed at W.A.S.P and tuning done at PITS on the Gold Coast. Interior, perfect condition. Exterior, plain but good condition. Mechanically, perfect condition - the tune and mods are amazing. Smoothest dyno graph I've seen and never ever backfires or misses a beat. However, I now have another car and I'm considering the possibility of selling the R33. I'd like to get 20k for it as it stands and I'm willing to wait to get a good price. I know you can get cheaper, but apart from not having a kit and wheels, mine is perfect. But..... the car is not at it's potential as the injectors are really holding it back and for an additional $2.5-3k I can have injectors and cams installed (with a retune) which "should" bring it to 18-20psi boost and around 260rwkw (or more) with much better low range as the 460hp T04e is a little laggy (full boost or 16psi 3500rpm). The problem is, Skylines are becoming so much more common and thus their value is plumetting and so I'm not sure if I should just sell it now and hope to get $20k (even 18 if I absolutely have to) or if I should just go for the mods and sell it later where it will stand out more from the crowd rather than being just your average 200-230rwkw Skyline, but have depreciated in value. The whole point of this is that I have another nice car and I'm planning to get a property in the near future. It's just so confusing though. I really don't know what I want and I'd like any opinions on whether it's worth selling now or modding now and selling later (at which case it will owe me around $30k). Also, do people think I'm dreaming hoping to get 20k? What could I get for it if it had the mods and was pulling 270rwkw? For what it's worth, the other car which I just bought this week is a Suzuki Sierra with a 4AGE 20v and another $5k worth of mods on top of that. Do I need two cars? Not really. But the Skyline is such a great car. This kinda thinking hurts

:confused: What happens when you turn on a light switch? The light comes on straight away. So I'm sure you can see what "on like a light switch" means. Also, is it just me or are there three different users all posting the same replies in this thread?

Big job for the timing belt. Think it usually takes about 3-4 hours + the cost of the belt (about $100) so you're looking at $3-400ish.

Start car as soon as I get in then choose a cd, put belt on, pack car. Anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Then I just take it easy keeping the revs down and boost at 0 or vacume until the guage reaches as high as it goes which is just below half. This usually takes about 3-5 minutes of driving. After that she's good to thrash. As for cooling down, I take it easy for the last 2 minutes then shut it straight off. If taking it easy wasn't an option then I'll set the timer to 2 mins or so. I rarely use the turbo timer at all though.

Mate keep in mind that if you're upgrading your turbo then you'll need the following at an absolute minimum. Fuel Pressure Regulator - $200ish Fuel Pump - $250'ish Aftermarket Fuel Management - $700ish Tune - $300ish Intercooler - $1000 Lines/adapters for turbo - $300ish Installation for all - $500ish Now that's just so the thing runs. Anyone doing a proper turbo upgrade would get the following. Fuel Pump Aftermarket Computer Intercooler Full Exhaust Injectors Induction Boost Control Clutch Tune which will take the cost close to $10,000. You sure you know what you're getting yourself into?

Rioting hey....

As for CES's claims on S15's, my mate got his S15 done at Mercury Motorsport with a full CES system, 12psi boost (ebc) and a pod with CAI. 172rwkw. Throwing a fmic on there got him 176rwkw with a little more boost but the car was running out of fuel by that stage. It's basically a known fact that the exhaust in Aus spec S15's is restrictive to the mofo and that's why they get such huge gains from this simple mod. CES isn't cheap though. Think is was around $2500ish.

Supra followed by RX-7. Such a tough decision

Hey guys. My car (S1 R33 Gts-t) is currently running the following. ITS460 (460hp internally gated T04e) Wolf3dv4 FMIC Fuel Pump Malpassi FPR 3inch zorst all the way I've been advised to leave it at 16psi due to the injectors maxing out and have managed about 230rwkw from this setup with according to the tuner (P.I.T.S), plenty left in the turbo. So I'm going to do my injectors shortly. 550cc Nismos or something similar. This will allow me to run 18-20psi boost which will mean I'll be getting the best out of my turbo rather than running it under it's efficiency level as is at the moment. The power curve climbs and climbs and then drops as soon at it hits the rev limiter. Now as this is going to require a retune, I thought that I might as get get some aftermarket cams installed at the same time. I'd really want more power and torque through the midrange where it's lacking at the moment and the faster spool times as well as higher boost should keep me content. From what I've read and searched here, the way to go is the Tomei Poncams as they directly replace the stock cams without further modifications. I've also read that on an RB25 the timing works best at 0 degress meaning I won't need to purchase adjustable cam gear. After this, I'm going to stop mods completely. Does this sound like a suitable idea? Will I benefit from having the cams installed considering my current setup? Thanks for any advice or hints.

P.I.T.S

You shouldn't need injectors to get to 230rwkw at all. You can save hundreds here. A new fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator should be plenty to get that power. Speaking with my personal experience where I've made 240rwkw with pump and fpr. However, I'm limited to 16psi where my turbo wants to run 20. Injectors are next but for 230rwkw I wouldn't bother.

Mine came on for no reason whatsoever and has stayed on since for several weeks now. I took it to Mercury Motorsports and told them about it but they had no idea how to fix it. The car feels no different so for now I'll just leave it as is. Most likely just a sensor as my fluids are fine.

240rwkw is good but not enough. 1st and 2nd are hell fun, don't need more power there but I'd like to be able to snap it into third with more than just a chirp. Until it becomes impratical, you'll always be wanting more once you become acustomed to what you have. I think I'll hit the limits of my stock internals then stop. So cams and injectors should finish it nicely and hopefully get me to 260-270rwkw. Just got the money from my new loan to buy me a daily though. Getting a Suzuki Sierra. 1.3l carb! Driving the Skyline less will make me appreciate it more

Mate the R32 GTR won't be much better in the reliability factor, or the petrol. It will shit on the 300zx and the R33 in anything performance related but if what you want is a hassle free car I'd definately recommend a late model R33 (96+). At $1.30 a litre mine cost me $69 to fill up and I get 400-450km. Moderately modified. The R33 will be hassle free and in the end unless you're a racer, that's what's important.

That car is so hot...

This topic sucks. Here I was considering doing cams and injectors on my Gts-t to get it to 260-270rwkw. I want a GTR so bad. An R33 GTR. This topic makes me realise that teh GTR will neva loose and that my Gts-t is always going to be a pos.

For 300rwkw look at a GT30. However, you'll need to do your internals to reliably run that power.