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What Is A Good Setting For Street Camber?


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I just lowered my car, and will be fitting some camber bushes front and rear for my r33 gtr, what settings will be good for street use when it comes to camber, as ill be getting an alignment straight after installing and want some settings to play with...also sydneykid, could you please reply to my PM.

thanks:)

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I just lowered my car, and will be fitting some camber bushes front and rear for my r33 gtr, what settings will be good for street use when it comes to camber, as ill be getting an alignment straight after installing and want some settings to play with...also sydneykid, could you please reply to my PM.

thanks:)

I get about 30 to 40 PM's a day, I am sorry if I can't respond to all of them immediately, rest assured that I do respond to every PM eventually, please just be patient.

The recommended road use alignment settings are in the relative Group Buy thread for each model, in your case that is;

Front Camber = 1.00 to 1.25 degrees negative

Front Caster = 5.00 degrees positive (basically as much as you can get, slightly more on the LHS as it helps with the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -0.5 to 0.75 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 1.00 mm in on each side

Wouldn't you want it to be as close to zero all round for better tyre wear?

When you go around a corner the chassis leans, the tigher the corner and/or the faster the speed the more the lean. Starting off with negative camber offsets that lean and ensures a larger contact patch for the outside tyres. If you alway (only) drove along in a straight line, then zero camber would be OK.

Cheers

Gary

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I get about 30 to 40 PM's a day, I am sorry if I can't respond to all of them immediately, rest assured that I do respond to every PM eventually, please just be patient.

The recommended road use alignment settings are in the relative Group Buy thread for each model, in your case that is;

Front Camber = 1.00 to 1.25 degrees negative

Front Caster = 5.00 degrees positive (basically as much as you can get, slightly more on the LHS as it helps with the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -0.5 to 0.75 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 1.00 mm in on each side

When you go around a corner the chassis leans, the tigher the corner and/or the faster the speed the more the lean. Starting off with negative camber offsets that lean and ensures a larger contact patch for the outside tyres. If you alway (only) drove along in a straight line, then zero camber would be OK.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks mate - so will i need just one set of bushes front/rear or double up on them to correct my camber enough?

Edited by nsta
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Thanks mate - so will i need just one set of bushes front/rear or double up on them to correct my camber enough?

This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Cheers

Gary

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Cheers - can you pm me a price including shipping to NZ for 1 set front, 2 sets rear camber kits including part no.s.

Thanks

I can do it but you would most likely be better off (freight cost wise) contacting your local Whiteline agent in NZ;

New Zealand

SAS Auckland (was Shock Absorbers Services)

611 Great South Road

Manukau City

Auckland NZ

Ph: 64 9 2623684

Fax: 64 9 2623683

[email protected]

Contact. Terry Morgan

SAS Christchurch

Cnr Gasson & Carlyle Sts

Sydenham, Christchurch

New Zealand

Ph: 64 3 366 4571

Fax: 64 3 366 9508

[email protected]

Peter MacDiarmid

SAS Hutt

49a Hutt Rd

Petone, Wellington

New Zealand

Ph: 64 4 566 3277

Fax: 64 4 566 3255

[email protected]

Richard Samuals

SAS North Shore

11 Silverfield, Takapuna

Ph: 64 9 4441390

Fax: 64 9 4441391

[email protected]

Stephen Webster

SAS Bay of Plenty

96 Newton Street

Mt Maunganui

Phone (07) 572 0619

Fax (07) 572 0698

[email protected]

Stephen Rundle

If you don't get any joy there, please PM me.

Cheers

Gary

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Thanks mate:), can you tell me what part nos i need?

KCA332 Caster Kit

KCA348 Front Camber kit

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit

KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit

Cheers

Gary

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  • 2 months later...

Hey Sydneykid, just wanting to confirm those part no. is for the r33 gtr????....and also could you please clarify:

KCA348 Front Camber kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm ?? (eg .5mm etc...)

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm??

This is so i can work out how many sets ill need as i have my wheel alignment form infront of me:)

Thanks

Edited by nsta
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Hey Sydneykid, just wanting to confirm those part no. is for the r33 gtr????....and also could you please clarify:

KCA348 Front Camber kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm ?? (eg .5mm etc...)

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm??

This is so i can work out how many sets ill need as i have my wheel alignment form infront of me:)

Thanks

And you've read the SK settings at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=r33+gtr

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Hey Sydneykid, just wanting to confirm those part no. is for the r33 gtr????....and also could you please clarify:

KCA348 Front Camber kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm ?? (eg .5mm etc...)

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit - How much adjustment can one of these make in mm??

This is so i can work out how many sets ill need as i have my wheel alignment form infront of me:)

Thanks

Nobody I know measures camber in mm, it's always degrees.

You can only have one front camber kit, there is only one place to install it, the outer upper control arm joint. If the one front camber kit doesn't set the camber correctly, then the car is too low.

On the rear there are two places (actually 4), the inner and outer joints of the upper control arm and the traction rod. That's why you can use 1 or 2 kits. If 2 rear camber kits don't set the camber correctly, then the car is too low.

Cheers

Gary

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You need a press to push the old bushes out, so unless you have access to something like a 10tonne press, you can't really do it yourself. Cheapest thing to do would probably take out your control arms yourself and take it to a suspension shop to push the old bushes out and put the new bushes in.

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  • 15 years later...
On 06/03/2008 at 1:07 PM, Sydneykid said:

I get about 30 to 40 PM's a day, I am sorry if I can't respond to all of them immediately, rest assured that I do respond to every PM eventually, please just be patient.

The recommended road use alignment settings are in the relative Group Buy thread for each model, in your case that is;

Front Camber = 1.00 to 1.25 degrees negative

Front Caster = 5.00 degrees positive (basically as much as you can get, slightly more on the LHS as it helps with the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -0.5 to 0.75 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 1.00 mm in on each side

When you go around a corner the chassis leans, the tigher the corner and/or the faster the speed the more the lean. Starting off with negative camber offsets that lean and ensures a larger contact patch for the outside tyres. If you alway (only) drove along in a straight line, then zero camber would be OK.

Cheers

Gary

What would be the best off set on 18" rims for these settings 

 

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I think the question is, with a R33 GTR, using the alignment settings that that Sydneykid posted....

....what wheels will fit in the guards without scrubbing with those settings for camber/caster.

I do not know the answer to this.

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The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style

Different tyres like different camber

You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings

For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want

Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues

And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car

Lots of front camber will effect braking

Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking 

When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph

And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's)

As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD

In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear

Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer

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