Ionos

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play, about 50,000kms travelled and plenty more in it. Ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo itself, elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. These looks to be selling for ~$1000 on the for sale forum but I can't be stuffed posting would rather a pickup. $700 ono. Pickup from 5098.

Still available, price reduced to $700.

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play, about 50,000kms travelled and plenty more in it. Ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo itself, elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $800 ono. Pickup from 5098. Makes me sad I pulled it off the car at this price.

Can't believe this hasn't sold. Price reduced to $800. Come on people, $800 for a HKS bolt on turbo kit in great nick! Makes me sad I pulled it off the car at this price.

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play and ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo itself, elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $900 ono. Pickup from 5098.

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play and ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo itself, elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $900 ono. Pickup from 5098.

Bump. Still available.

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play and ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo itself, elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $900 ono. Pickup from 5098.

Bump. Need this gone, open to reasonable offers.

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play and ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo (duh), elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $1000. Pickup from 5098.

Reduced to $1000 firm for the full kit (bolt on). Half the price of a GCG HiFlow with more power and you dont have to send away your standard turbo!

Price drop - $1100.

Price drop - $1150.

Sorted, thanks Brad.

R33 Turbo heatshield wanted - prefer north side of town pickup. Looking to pay $20 which seems to be going rate on ebay

HKS GT2535 Full Kit for R33 RB25DET. Great condition with minimal shaft play and ready to bolt straight up to your GTS-T. Includes turbo (duh), elbow and silicone joiner/shield, all lines, basically everything you need to swap out with your standard turbo. I'll include some new turbo to manifold bolts. An easy 250-260rwkw with supporting mods. $1250. Pickup from 5098.

Good stuff! An air leak will cause the car to report more air going in then is actually being ingested by the engine under boost, thus injecting more fuel then is ideal making the car run rich. This is why it feels sluggish. If it's a big air leak the effect is quite pronounced as the factory ECU will think the car is overboosting due to a larger amount of air coming in then expected in the Airflow/RPM Load map. The ECU then goes into rich (more fuel) and retard (delay spark) mode to protect the engine. Regarding a 'basic tune' - modern factory ECU engines don't require regular tuning like older cars do. The ECU learns on the fly and takes care of this. What I would suggest is disconnecting your battery for 30 seconds and flick your lights on and off to drain any residual power, then reconnect the battery. This will reset the ECU so it re-learns without the air leak present. See how your idle is and take it from there.

Ahh I can't believe I didn't mention checking for vacuum leaks! You're right of course this is the very first thing one should do If you have access to an air pump or compressor, it's easy to test for leaks in the intake system. Just remove the AFM and find a can of baked beans or similar that fits in it's place (75mm diameter) to seal the system. Then remove the hose attached to your top intercooler pipe and attach your compressor, pressurise the system to 15 PSI and listen for leaks. If you find it's not holding pressure you might need to turn the engine over a few times (depending on the position of the crankshaft your valves won't always have a perfect seal. Just don't over pressurise the system or you might below a pipe off (have someone watch the boost gauge in the cabin and stop when it hits +7).

Hi mate, Going to a workshop will be the easiest option but also the most expensive. Do you have an aftermarket ECU, I didn't see one mentioned in your list of mods? If you dont have one or a piggy back device like an Apexi SAFC then there is very little 'tuning' needed with these cars. 'Dyno Tuning' without an aftermarket ECU or Piggy back device is pointless. A few quick tips that might help if you want to pursue DIY. - if you're on the stock ECU then you really shouldn't run any higher then 10 PSI. Higher then this will go into rich and retard mode, and aren't healthy for the standard turbo. If you've increased the boost then try lowering it a bit and see if that helps. - the AAC doesn't really need adjusting but cleaning it out however can help with a smoother idle if you're finding that it flucuates or hunts. There's a tutorial on the forums, it's not hard to do if you have the right tools. It's worth investing in a socket spanner set and a ring/flare spanner set. The right tools make the job easy, without them it's a bloody nightmare. If your idle is fine then I wouldn't touch it. - on coilpacks: If you have a spark problem then you'll notice on high boost your car will make a machine gun/rally car type sound. It's quite obvious. If you haven't replaced your spark plugs in a while, this is a good place to start and make sure you gap them to 0.8mm. When putting your coilpacks back in wrap them up in electrical tape (again check the DIY forum). Don't boost higher then 10PSI as above. This has a good chance to solve any problems without having to buy new coilpacks. - ECU codes. Unless your check engine light is coming on, don't worry about it - FMIC: I personally think that for street use these are a bad thing unless you are investing in a bigger/hi flow turbo and ECU upgrade. In real street use, there is no usable power gain and you lose a lot of response which is very important for daily driving. There's lots of people who will disagree no doubt. By all means take it to a workshop if you want of course, just trying to save you some moolah mate!

Thanks mate

Can anyone tell me which direction the RB25det turbo oil drain should be bending towards? I'm reinstalling a stock turbo and from the pictures I've seen it looks like the oil drain pipe should bend towards the engine, however it seems to be much higher then fitting on the engine block and doesn't appear that the rubber hose will be long enough. Am I missing something obvious?

Intercooler & Spoiler gone. Still have 6x Nismo 555cc Injectors - $400.

PowerFC is gone! Price reduced- Water/Air Intercooler kit - $150 firm. Nismo 555cc Injectors - $400 firm. Also selling a stealth spoiler/duck lip spoiler in white - looks identical to this - $100.

WTB RB25DET turbo. Not fussed if series 1 or 2.

Some aftermarket parts to sale, and offering to fellow South Aussies first before throwing on the general board. These seem to be the going prices but open to reasonable offers if you can show me a cheaper price on the board R33 RB25DET PowerFC & Hand controller - $1150 6x Side feed Nismo 555cc injectors (yellow top). Pintle caps are all intact. $450 If you want both I'll do a combined price of $1500. Also after a stock R33 GTST turbo so would be happy to give some $$$ off in trade if anyone has one.