Ionos

Selling my Water Intercooler kit as shown in this thread - http://www.skylinesa...05#entry5927305. The kit in question is this one - http://www.frozenboo...6161710e43dad20 Cost me about $600 for everything, however the front mounted radiator component was punctured so i've taken the opportunity to go back to a factory side mount cooler and start returning the car to stock in preparation for an upgrade later this year. So the buyer would need to source a new radiator or attempt a repair (unlikely I think, I already had a go unsuccessfully). You could grab a cheap small radiator from a wrecker and you'd be ready to rock and roll. If you're thinking of entering the world of water intercooling I highly recommend it! All of the benefits of a big front mount cooler without the intake lag that comes with it. Everything in the link above is included + hoses, fittings and custom mounting hardware to suit an R33. $200 for the lot.

Beauty, thanks gents

Hope someone can help - have searched and couldn't find the answer. I'm looking to return to stock and so want a standard ECU to replace my powerFC. I've got a 95 R33 GTS-T with no ignitor module on the coilpack cover. What label/model of standard ECU would I need? Is it just a matter of getting the right ECU and then a straight swap with the powerFC (I'll be changing my 550cc injectors back to standard at the same time).

$60 for intercooler & fittings? I don't need the two engine bay pipes

No water temp probe, although i've put my hand on the jacket to feel the water temp after several full boost runs and it still feels cold. There is about 2 litres of water in the system so it will soak up a fair bit of heat - ideal for street use but again you wouldn't use this sort of system on the track. More worthwhile would be an air temp system and ideally I could have tested the intake temps with the FMIC to compare to the new system, but I didn't have the hardware for this and am reluctant to spend more money on something that is just a 'nice to know'. The pipe between the turbo elbow and intercooler is simply a 20cm straight piece of 2.5" Aluminium pipe. Apart from that, 2x 2.5" to 3" 90 degree silcone bends is all you need to fit up to the WAIC with this location. I would note as well that the system is not cheaper then an off the shelf FMIC kit - they can be had for around $300-$400 I believe these days. You are looking at $600 minimum for all the gear to install a water kit like this, and that assumes that you can fabricate the mounting hardware yourself. It is however much more efficient with a lower pressure drop due shorter intake piping, less bends, and less restrictive internals inside the core - the inner passages of water intercoolers are much bigger then bar&plate air coolers. This means that you can squeeze more boost (perhaps up to 2psi more) out of your turbo for the same effort. For someone running a factory turbo this would be ideal.

Bump - $200.

Just replaced one of my yellow jackets. Paul made the warranty claim a piece of cake, much appreciated!

Having owned 2 RB25DETs now for over 4 years, both with the dime a dozen 600x300x76 FMIC's, I've always missed the crispness of the factory intercooler. My first R33 was almost factory standard when I got it - I did the usual Stage 1 mods without really that much knowledge except that I wanted 'moar powa'. After installing the 3" exhaust with decent 'seat of the pants' dyno results, I purchased a FMIC kit back when $500 for a new kit was a bargain. I remember the disappointment after spending a whole day installing it (bolt on kit my arse!!) with the lag that came with changing from the standard induction path to that of a cross body FMIC. Later I realised that you could get the Blitz style kits which reduced this slightly, but I always thought it was going to be a trade off for a car that was strictly used on the street. Now, I know of course that FMIC's are the only way to go for the track due to their unparalleled efficiency. Having said that, I never go on the track and most of my driving is partial boost, partial throttle. My second R33 (after the first was stolen) was purchased already modified with about 240rwkw and mods to suit including a GT2535 and PowerFC, and of course a FMIC. The GT2535 is still quite a responsible turbo, but the feeling was still there that I had to pressurise this massive intake tract before that precious boost was getting into my engine. No more! The solution – a compact, Water/Air intercooler with a shorter intake tract then even the factory SMIC. Mounted on top of the pod filter (no air box) it would be a simple matter of two 90 degree silicone bends to take boost off the turbo, into the WAIC and back into the engine cross pipe. Some concerns – the WAIC is very small. What if it wasn’t big enough to cool the intake charge with 17 PSI? What if I couldn’t make it fit? What if I ended up losing power? What if I was wrong, and it made little difference to the turbo lag despite all the effort (after all, everyone seems to swear by those FMIC’s). After researching for a very long time and being unable to find someone who has actually gone down the road of installing a Water/Air Intercooler on their Skyline, I decided to take the plunge and give it a go myself. I bought a ’600 hp’ kit off Frozen Boost along with the required accessories to install it – Heat Exchanger, Pump, Hosing and Clamps as well as a Thermo fan which is currently unfitted. All up the gear cost about $600 including delivery, thanks to a great US Dollar. I’d already measured up and was confident I could make everything fit. Off came the front bar, FMIC and piping and I set to work looking to fit the new hardware. The most difficult part was making the Heat Exchanger fit – while the core was the same width and height as the FMIC (600x300) the top tanks made it sit too low. The solution was to fabricate some custom brackets to sit it on a slight angle. The pump was a cinch, fitted behind the left fender, with plumbing going into the engine bay via the now unused standard intercooler holes. Finally the actual intercooler core fitted onto of the AFM and Pod with more custom brackets fabricated to hold everything in place. Last step was to fill her up with a little coolant (anti corrosion), make sure there are no leaks and everything is tight both on the water and the air plumbing and fire her up. A cautious off-boost test drive revealed little difference compared to with the FMIC. Once she was up to temperature though, the first pedal mash resulted in a whole different car! My boost jumped straight to 20PSI (up from 17) due to the almost non-existent pressure drop with the new Intercooler (WAIC’s have very, very low pressure drop <1psi). I quickly retuned the duty cycle on my AVCR to go back to 17 PSI. I was now achieving the same boost as before but my turbo didn’t have to work anywhere near as hard – less heat and less wear. A few more runs showed a remarkable difference, power came on smooth and progressive, almost like a V8, instead of the nothing then big surge that I was used to. It was especially evident on partial throttle/partial boost, the whole car felt significantly snappier. The WAIC has been fitted for a few weeks now and absolutely no regrets. I’ve done several full boost runs in a row and noticed no difference in ‘seat of the pants dyno’ power, although without actually putting it on a proper dyno it’s difficult to tell if there is a slight power drop. Even so the huge increase in response is well worth a slight top end power drop, if there even is one. Hope you enjoyed the read and that this inspires another Skyline owner to enter the world of Water Intercooling!

So for those who've had yellow jackets fail, did they die completely or develop a missfire on high rpm boost (as per broken OEM's). I've had mine in for about a year and just had the misfire reappear.

Price drop for the weekend - $200. Bargain FMIC kit people!

R33 Genuine Hybrid FMIC (600x300x76) and Piping kit. Note that intercooler hot size pipe has a small gash/hole (about 1cm long by 2mm wide) and would require welding to fix prior to fitment, or you could clamp a silcone joiner over the gash. Price reflects this. $250 - pickup from NE 'burbs.

Just an update on this, got the car back from Fours N More tonight. Great blokes and very happy with the service.

Thanks for all the comments. I've rung Fours n More for a quote but haven't heard back from the fella yet, see how we go early next week.

Hi all, My 1995 R33 GTS-T is long over due for a bit of TLC. I've booked in for a Major service at Boostworx - I know they have a great reputation. I've been quoted $1450 for a full major service including all fluids w/ Redline Gbox oil, Timing Belt, Water pump, plugs etc. Idler is not included in the cost (I'm pretty sure mine needs replacing, will be extra $60-70). Seems a bit steep to me and a bit of research pulls up some old threads suggesting the cost should be around the ~$1000 mark, but it may have gone up. What do you think, is that a fair price or should I shop around a bit more? Cheers!

Heater core? Price and condition?

Hi champ - got a heater core in good nick, if so what are you chasing...

I've been driving Skylines for almost 4 years and have never once been pulled over 'randomly'. As others have said, if you're getting pulled over and done over all the time then there is a reason for it and it's probably to do with your driving style and your attitude.

Still available. Will take $50 for a quick sale.

R33 Series 2 Coil Packs - 6 of them. Upgraded to yellow jackets as one of them was starting to break down occasionally, rest are fine. No idea which one was breaking down, but you get all 6 so great for spares if you dont want to fork out $400 for yellow packs! $80 for all of them. NE Suburbs.

Cheap as. That roof damage is nothing, easy for your local panel beater to fix.

Yep it's a series 1.5. Mine is the same, and I'm guessing your R33 is a 1995 model? Series 1 and 2 turbos are interchangable anyhow so it doesn't really matter.

Hmm should still be able to get the electrode in there if you know someone with an arc welder. But if you can get it for free even better!

Weld a bit of offcut steel onto it then vicegrips.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. You have to remember that even though you might insure items individually, the total amount you are paid out will not exceed the "agreed value". If you add modifications and want the agreed value to go up, you have to specifically renegociate this. I wouldn't worry about it too much, $18500 for a Series 2 GTS-T is very good. Take a look on the For Sale forums, I'd doubt you could get that much selling it privately.

It's discretionary. They can fine you if they want to but sometimes they'll just defect and not give you a fine as well. Good reason to remain polite and composed even when an arsehole cop is bending you over.