Ionos

5w-30 to 10w-60 is not slightly thicker, it's a lot thicker. I'd suggest it's probably too thick for your engine. Why didn't you use 5w-30 again?

My diff has been a little loose around the corners lately, so I'm going to pull it off and shim it up. I figured it would be a good idea to replace the bearings while i'm at it, since it has been humming a little. Can anyone help with a few questions? - Is it in fact the bearings that would be humming? - Any idea on part numbers for the bearings I need? - I have access to a bearing puller, would dodging up a press with a car jack be sufficient to put the new bearings in? Never done this sort of thing before so sorry if these are daft questions! Cheers.

I have 240rwkw on the RB25 AFM. I think that's about the effective limit. Of course, you can go as high as you want but it means that you lose resolution at the upper end, and the problem with that is that your tuner has to tune to the 'worst case' scenario once your AFM is maxed out. What that essentially means if that you are not able to milk the most power out of the entire rev range. In short, if you are aiming for 300rwkw then don't mess around, get a Z32 afm.

Still got the parcel shelf, rear speaker covers and mounts?

I need 4 centre caps to suit 17" AVS Model 6 wheels (they are white). PM me if you have some for sale.

Going to be installing a sub so no needs for my Jaycar 6x9's anymore. Is anyone interested in trading my 6x9's, fiberglass pods and sound deadened parcel shelf for their 6"/6.5" rear speakers & covers, mounts and parcel shelf? This is for an R33. Shoot me a PM to discuss.

Hi Lofty - how much with Postage to Adelaide? Can you give me an idea of what kind of sub is recommended to go in this, and what exactly is involved in installing the box.

Soz dude, mabey that comment was a bit harsh. Just not my cup of tea, rest of the car looks great though.

I know you guys are joking and of course looks are subjective, but those rims are pretty awful. At least they're clean and shiny though, mine are all banged/scratched up.

Road tune is your best bet, you'll need a wide band o2 sensor and knock sensor if your emu doesn't display knock already. I'm not 100% familier with how the 'speed rollers' operate but from the sounds of things they would not be able to simulate the load required to properly tune as you have suggested. You could do light load tuning on them, but it's probably easier to do this on the road also. Start looking for an empty stretch of bitumen!

I'm making 235rwkw at 1.2 bar (HKS GT2535) and can only run 10 degrees of advance at full power 98 Octane of course. From looking at that timing here others are running 15 degrees or more. What gives?

Cameras in SA wont flash you for being 3 km/hr over, you need 10% over (67 in a 60 zone). So hopefully good news and it was another car and not you, or you were going faster then you thought you were.

Sorted, thanks Adrian.

Need someone with the laptop dongle and software to unlock my PFC tune. I've taken it back to the tuners already but they didn't end up doing it, and I need to do some minor timing adjustments still. I can't be bothered calling them up as it's been about 3 months since I was there now, and I haven't had time to sort it out. Anyhow, if someone is willing to plug their laptop into it to unlock it for me, and spend a few minutes changing some timing settings, I'd gladly donate a 6 pack of your favourite premium beer or a bottle of wine as preferred. Anyone who can help out.

I stand corrected, they're just under $2500 delivered IF you manage to get it through customs without them charging you GST and duties. If you don't, then you're getting damn close to $3k.A KKR 430 is $850, which is ever so slightly over 1/3 if you aren't charged customs, and well under 1/3 if you are (which technically you should be). You also get a local warrenty with the KKR. You see plenty of posts complaining about plenty of things. You also see plenty of posts here saying they're fine, I'm happy with it. I'd hazard a guess that those who complain "it's laggy" are complaining because they expect their $850 turbo to perform like a $2500 turbo, which is just plain stupidity. By the way, my post wasn't specifically directed at you, moreso the clowns who say "HKS GTRS" (see 5 posts into the thread) with no rhyme or reason behind it, like it's just a few extra bucks to go for the HKS. For the record, I own an HKS turbo.

f**k me, not another one of these threads. Listen up everyone who keeps saying buy an HKS turbo - not everyone can afford to dump almost $3k on a turbo. No shit the KKR isn't as good as HKS, it is also less then 1 third the cost. So what if it isn't as responsive? Why not suggest that they also chuck in a RB25/30 hybrid while changing the turbo, that would make it even more responsive! Or put in an RB26 with a 2.9l stroker while you're at it! The KKR is a good turbo for the price. No, it's not as good as an HKS item. No one ever suggested that it was.

Good find, although you're not the first to point this out on these forums. Keep in mind this is only a fix if there are visible cracks in the housing. Sometimes the coils go internally, in which case there is nothing you can do, you have to get replacement coils. By the way, hooking them up and running it with the lights up is a great way to check if they are failing externally or internally! Good thinking 99.

Yep the above is pretty much correct. You wouldn't and shouldn't use redline in a new gearbox. That said though, it's great stuff for bringing new life into a gearbox on it's last legs, just don't expect it to be a permanent fix.

Whoops yes PSI is correct, you do save weight just not as much as with full CF. He's also right that for most people it's a non-issue, the weight saving is negligable for a street car. Unless of course you have a GTR - that already has an aluminium hood so you'd probably gain weight with Fibreglass.

Keep in mind thet 95% of the "Carbon Fibre" bonnets are actually Fiberglass bonnets with a Carbon Fibre overlay. Sure, you get the same look but you don't save any weight.

I bought a Just Jap kit years ago and had the same problem. Ended up having to make new brackets from aluminium to space things out. Can you move the cooler back further towards the radiator? If not, what is blocking it?

You're right though, Teflon is really slippery. The problem is though, that while you want lubrication you don't want thinks to be too slippery. Your Syncros rely on a small amount of friction to do their job - which is to sync the gear speed to the shaft speed so that you can smoothly slip into gear. The reason why many people have problems with N70 is that it makes the Syncros TOO slippery, which means that it doesn't sync quickly enough, and hence your gearbox ends up crunching.

It will be freaking loud and probably drone. My RB25DET had this exact setup when I bought it, it was horrible. The droning was crazy, sounded great on WOT but how often are you on WOT compared to cruising? Never mind also that it's obviously illegally loud, and the last thing we need with these cars are more attention from the boys in blue.

No worries Figured it wouldn't be so easy but doesn't hurt to ask.

Speaking of GT-RS, is there any reason why you couldn't buy the RB26 GTRS twin pack, and split it with another skyline owner? IE, each bolt up the RB26 GT-RS to their RB25 and split the cost, saving a bit of $$$.