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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!


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Hi Simark,

Just a quick question...

Can you use this to replace the skylines boost control solenoid and use it as a bleed valve instead?

Have you done any testing with this setup?

It seems possible.

I have just bought one of these on ebay (didn't know about the $28 skyline special. D'oh!)

When it comes, I was going to do some experiments and use it instead of the bleed solenoid, starting with the one way valve fully closed and then losening it off to bleed air.

Any quarms?

Thanks

Chris

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Hi Chris,

To be honest I have limited knowledge of skylines and how they incorporate their solenoids. I believe the knowledge you require lies right here in this forum full of clever blokes. Just today a member who purchased a controller bypassed the soleniod I believe. Perhaps you could check back a page or so and read of his setup..

Cheers,

Mark

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To use the boost controller it is best to remove the standard boost control solanoid from the loop.

After all, you are simply replacing the boost control device.

Winding in = more boost

Winding out = less.

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Yeah, I've rethought my experiments -

Don't want to break anything...

When I first saw this contraption, I thought that that was how it worked...

ie, remove the solenoid and plug it into when it used to sit, and bleed air.

Now I see that you plug it in where the solenoid t piece is.

Cool, Thanks anyway...

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Yeah, I've rethought my experiments -  

Don't want to break anything...

When I first saw this contraption, I thought that that was how it worked...

ie, remove the solenoid and plug it into when it used to sit, and bleed air.

Now I see that you plug it in where the solenoid t piece is.

Cool, Thanks anyway...

and its not a bleed valve.. it doesn't bleed any air...

it basically provides resistance to the air to stop it getting to the wastegate

so you start with no resistance (ie bolt fully out)then wind in as you increase boost.

starting with screw fully in will start with maximun boost and you will lose turbo very quickly..

Warren.

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and its not a bleed valve.. it doesn't bleed any air...

it basically provides resistance to the air to stop it getting to the wastegate

so you start with no resistance (ie bolt fully out)then wind in as you increase boost.

starting with screw fully in will start with maximun boost and you will lose  turbo very quickly..

Warren.

Yeah, This is how I'm gunna set it up.

As for the bleed bit - I think you misunderstood me.

Maybe another way to say it is, this device was intended to be hooked up in series.

If you hooked it up in parallel, Theoretically you could use it as a bleed valve. So instead or restricting air to the actuator by tightening it, It would be bleeding air out by loosening it. Afterall, thats what the solendoid does. It's all in how and where you hook it up. (lost anyone, he he)

Anyway, It doesn't matter. I'm not going to risk blowing my engine for some experimentation. So I will be hooking it up in series - the way everyone else hooked it up. Can't wait to get it - I'm only running 6.5 pounds of boost ATM...

Yeehar!

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Hooking it up in parallel like normal bleed valves would make this BC's features and design pretty useless wouldn't it?

Well like you, I'll just be hooking it up in series like everyone else and like the Jaycar EBC to get quicker boost and reduce wastegate creep (whatever that is ahhaha).

Andy

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Hi guys,

Just reminding all who are receiving this controller shortly:

The controller comes pre-set at low boost, whcih which normally be slightly above whatever you are running now. I fully recommend NOT winding in the adjuster until after you have installed and tested on the road.

After this, only FINE adjustments are needed to get significant increases in boost.

Cheers

Mark

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"Wastegate creep is when the wastegate is starting to open even tho your car is nowhere near full boost. As most wastegates work off springs they are set up to creep open as boost builds up. So your turbo is not spooling up as fast as it could since some of the exhust gas is being directed through the wastegate."

This is what I think is happening but would like to know more...

Excess boost is normally vented by the wastegate when boost pressure exceeds factory limts. This controller intercepts the boost and controls just how much pressure the wastegate sees (controlled by how much its screwed in or not). This used to be the solenoids job but now is the controllers???

Someone enlighten us! EDIT: Thanks Warren.

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lol the question was how does this device eliminate wastegate creep. not what is wastegate creep.

well the spring is set to a tension so that the ball can only be opened by a certain amount of boost pressure. Before this pressure is reached, the ball and spring prevent ANY compressed air from getting to the wastegate thus prevent wastegate creep.

essentialy by the time the wastegate sees boost, you are already at your desired boost level ;)

Warren.

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just wanting to know how this would work with a twin turbo car? would you just use a T piece to join both internal gates and then into this boost controller? and will it handle that fine do you think?

thanks

exactly. I have one of these on my GTR and it works magically. I had a avcr but was having problems tuning it so thought Id just give one of these a try seein how cheap they are anyway.

swapped the avcr solenoid for this (plumbing is all the same) and now it runs between 1.28 and 1.33bar peak on average (as the avcr is still monitering boost, just not controlling it) which is around 18.5psi-19.5psi roughly, which is close enough for me for a $30 boost controller that can get boost that accurate and hold it.

And as they say about the ball not letting any pressure through till its got the right level is true as boost hits really hard now, thank god for 4wd ;)

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c what i'm having trouble understanding is:

springs F=kx pretty simple. Assumme k is constant ====> pretty good assumption.

now here's the thing:

The units of pressure (among others is) Pa, short for Pascal, 1 Pa=1N/m2. Basically Force per area. Now if an even pressure is exerted on an area u multiply the pressure by the area and u get a Force. By screwing the thing in and out u are changing x.

Now back to F=kx it is easily seen that F is directly proportional to x. hence pressure is proportional to x (since force=pressure*area, area is constant in this case). no matter if x has changed any force will force the ball bearing to move... ball bearing moves=> air gets to wastegate=>wastegate creep. Hence my confusion.

Unlike the jaycar IEBC where the wastegate only sees how much pressure u want it to c. is there some kind of seat pressure as with external gates?

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Lets get rid of text book crap, and think along the lines of flow - how hydraulic diagrams are drawn.

Boost pressure ---> Screw Sol ---> Wastegate

So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi.

Cheers

Matt

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How effective are these in reducing wastegate creep?

I guess not as good as the Jaycar but if they are 80% as good that is pretty decent....

If I'm making full boost by say 3000rpm in 2nd gear (lightly moded R33) could this reduce it to say 2600rpm??

That would be nice

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How effective are these in reducing wastegate creep?

I guess not as good as the Jaycar but if they are 80% as good that is pretty decent....

If I'm making full boost by say 3000rpm in 2nd gear (lightly moded R33) could this reduce it to say 2600rpm??

That would be nice

how efective is up to the opinions of those that have tried it

responses so far? almost as good an an EBC

so, let's say it goes something like the following:

%effectiveness at removing wastegate creep:

bleed valve - 60%

this boost controller - 90%

EBC - 100%

worth $28? i think so...

but saying that, i have not installed mine yet and hope the above is how it goes!

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Well I've already got his on order and it has been sent out. I should be getting the Jaycar EBC as well. So in about a month when my semester is over I'll be trying out the Jaycar to do comparisons.

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