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These controllers may be cheaper than the one sold at performance shops but are made properly adn indicdually unlike mass produced items mad cheap and sold at high prices.  

Simark

Mark,

Just to clarify the construction of the valve, is it correct that the adjuster only screws in a total of 4 full turns before bottoming out ?

fitted mine 2 days ago, works well, my previous bleed valve for some reason used to let the boost creep up 1psi as the revs got higher, so at lower revs it was 1psi lower than i wanted.

with the new controller it holds exactly 10psi the whole time, much better :(

Angry...

What turbo are you running?

I've found the stock RB20DET turbo has issues holding more than 12.5-13psi.

A nice free flowing 3.5" does help quite a bit.

The Rb20DET turbo on the rb30det has issues holding more than 9psi.

So its definitely a turbo issue.

standard Rb20 redtop turbo ....making this horrible squeeling sound since i put the controller on ..i think its the bleeder hole... but **** it spool earlier now and comes in with a bit of a wack compared to the unboosted 10psi it was running for the last 12months.

i'm running around 12 psi ..gets fuel cut when its cold ..so i think a little more tweakin might be needed.

in 2nd it holds around 12 psi to about 5.. and drops to 10 right at the peak of 6500-7000. with a FMIC 3inch dump pipe back system with hiflow modified CAT. :Pimp2: .... currently building my split 3inch dump pipe ..hopefully that frees it up a little more ..as it kinda pops thru the exhaust under hard boost in 1st and 2nd..but i tihnk thats plug gap

.. but i'm looking to get my VG30 turbo fitted soon as well .... as long as i dont kill this 20 in the mean time..

Hey guys, Got mine in the mail today...

Looking at installing it but im totally useless. I have attached a pic from my FC rx-7 service manual. On the left there is the rx7 turbo setup and on the bottom right is the pic of the rx7 turbo. What i dont get is according to the left pic... on the right pic, isnt there spose to be a boost solenoid valve inbetween the hose from the wastegate actuator to the compressor cover that im spose to bypass ? Any ideas how i should connect this controller?

All input is appreciated

Cheers

This manual boost controller are good but if you are running serious power you cant go past a HKS EVC which uses a solenoid and stepper motor to control boost.

How is that relevant when people here are talking about a $22 boost controller, running slightly more than std boost :confused:

The AVCR's single solanoid works perfectly fine.

The Blitz SBC-iD doesn't have bells and whistles. :hippy:

AVCR I suppose. :rofl:

The Blitz EBC only has 4 channels, auto and manual mode with a scamble, multi pressure readouts i.e PSI etc.

Thats not bells and whistles.

What sets the Blitz and AVCR apart from the HKS is the auto modes.

For a smallish turbo setup the auto mode nets you an extra 10-20rwkw.

A larger turbo that has no problems supplying the required air at high rpm's doesn't drop boost, in turn the std fairly basic fixed duty cycle setup of the HKS works fine.

Hi guys im from the Uk and own a r33 gts t, ive been asking questions on other forums in the uk about this device, and have been advised on the following.....

is not advisable to allow the car to run the higher level of boost early in the rev range due to the ignition advance in the lower rpm range, removing the 2 stage boost control will allow the boost to run at .7bar from 2500 rpm and the ignition map will be too agressive to allow the engine to run without detonation.

Im not wishing to name names here but would just like to know what your opinion on this comment is.

Im not a mechanical wizard, and really just want to know the 2 sides of a coin so to speak.

Im just intriqued:)

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